Sharpening on the go - what are my options?

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silvaticus

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Aug 26, 2016
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Folks of BF, I'd like to pick your brain on my options regarding sharpening. Here's the background: I've been into knives for a while and my sharpening skills are ok-ish (but I still have a lot to learn). I currently use a Lansky/ Gatco guided system (the deluxe kit) for sharpening, and the steels in my arsenal range from 440C to S30V and S35VN (so no uber-steels like S110). Now I'm traveling a lot for extended periods for work, plus I like to be out in the field... in both cases the Gatco system is not a good option, simply too big and unwieldy.

I've been looking into portable sharpening options and came across the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener. This looks like it could be for me, because (1) it seems to offer a lot in a compact package, and (2) it still has some angle guidance but is a step towards freehand from the Gatco (and could help me to become more comfortable with moving to freehand eventually). But... there is a but, of course: My knives have very different grinds, from FFG and saber to scandi and convex. Now I think I could do most of them with the WS, but what makes me scratch my head is the convex grind (which are my main outdoor fixed blades, so this is an important part). I've done the sand paper and mouse pad variant at home, but in the field this seems to be not a very convenient option. Can I do convex grind on the WS?

So I guess my questions are:
* for those of you who own one, do you like the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener?
* what are other options for portable yet flexible sharpeners other than the Work Sharp?
* would a convex grind work with the Work Sharp (or any other system), and if so, how?
* what do you use to sharpen your convex grinds when in the field?

Thanks for the advice!
 
Convex edges can be maintained in the field like a conventional "V" edge. Their advantage over other edge geometries is that they have less material at the shoulder than flat bevels of equal edge angle, and so are better penetrating for similar durability/equal stability. As a result, you don't need to worry you don't need to worry too much about maintaining the shoulder during field sharpening.
 
Well you may not like it but I have a couple of answers . . . this is what I do :

Carry backup / spare knives with fresh edges on them.

Learn to free hand for this I use diamond paddles because I can sharpen many other tools besides just knives with them, require no oil or water or clean up and this whole extremely versatile kit fits in a shirt pocket (man perse actually) with room to spare. The white thing in the plastic tube is what I use most on my pocket knives as a "strop"/ "touchup" . . . it is a Spyderco Ultra Fine ceramic rod and as long as I don't make a serious mistake in the use of a pocket knife then that is all I need for quite a while. Fixed blades may need something more aggressive.



The guided systems back at home . . . in my case an Edge Pro and or Shapton bench stones . . . are for cutting back the steel behind the edge to get the edge bevel back into spec once I have a block of time again.
 
I use two types of field sharpeners: a coarse diamond to repair edges if I hit a rock or a nail, and a ceramic stone for finishing and touch ups.

If I'm being weight conscious, I just take a Fallkniven DC4, which has both coarse diamond and a medium-ish ceramic.

If I don't mind the weight, I bring two DMT diafolds (XC/C and F/EF) for repair and finishing, and microbevel and touch ups with a double-sided ceramic stone like the Spyderco DoubleStuff or the Fallkniven CC4.

In either case, it takes a bit of trying to figure out how to hold the small stones and get some muscle memory for keeping the angles good enough without a stationary bench. But once you have it down, it's very flexible to be able to sharpen anywhere, without even needing a good place to sit down.
 
I carry my Spyderco Sharpmaker, lightweight, small package, easy to use. A plus is that it can sharpen all kinds of tools from fishing hooks, to scissors, to chisels, knives of course. Here is a great video series about this little package and cutting edges in general by a fellow who has probably sharpened a million knives over his knife sharpening and making carrier.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB0r6GvESGg
 
I wouldn't consider the Sharpmaker lightweight or small. It's portable, yes, but I wouldn't be carrying it for field sharpening.
 
Folks, thanks for the replies so far... very helpful.

@ Wowbagger: I know that eventually freehand is the way to go... just don't know if I'm fully there yet! But looks like a nice setup you have there!

@ Dangerously: I've been actually looking at the DC4 - I might take a closer look (once I'm comfortable going freehand)

@ FortyTwo: Thanks for the suggestion. I know that I can in general do the same thing to a convex grid if need be, but I would not feel comfortable with this over longer stretches (e.g., traveling for work), because I' eventually get a microbevel on it... But good to know anyway.

Keep 'em coming - any and all thoughts welcome!
 
As for convex edges, I don't bother with mousepads. I just sharpen the edge at the angle I want it, and then blend it back into the convex primary grind, all on the stones. I will sometimes strop for polish, but I find it far faster to set the bevel on stones.
 
Yup. If you want to maintain the convex, apex like a standard flat bevel and then do rocking strokes at no greater than that angle to blend in the bevel. Pretty simple.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Sharpening freehand is simple and versatile. DMT Diafolds work great in the field.
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Absolutely, if the OP has a cell phone many have an angle app also.He could set the DMT Diafold Double-Sided Field Sharpener against something solid and go sharp maker style.
 
Put a small diamond hone in your wallet and learn to freehand sharpen. Freehand sharpening is easy to do once you disregard most of the BS put out about sharpening. It's not rocket science and you can even use the bottom of a coffee mug or top edge of your car window. A smooth rock out of stream will do in a pinch. The only trick to freehand sharpening is to not worry about the exact angle. Close will be good enough.

Google youtube instinktive knife sharpening. People have been doing it since biblical times.

The cut down diamond hone I carry in my wallet. Can sharpen anywhere, anytime in a few minutes;
 
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A diamond stone with a small leather strop.

i like the Fallkniven DC4 as it comes with a ceramic side as well as a diamond plate (good for your S30v and s35vn). And if i dropped it and the ceramic side broke, i would still have the diamond plate. The DMT minisharps are pretty handy too. Just gotta practice your freehand, i'm not great at it myself, but i know i can get a working edge on my blade if i needed to.
 
Thanks jackknife and Securis... I'll look into small and portable stones. Still a bit worried that I'll mess up that nice convex grind with them.
But generally I like the take of sharpening not being rocket science!
 
I'm biased, of course, but I designed these babies with rapid field sharpening specifically in mind.

baryonyx-arctic-fox-pocket-stone-21.gif
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I'm biased, of course, but I designed these babies with rapid field sharpening specifically in mind.

baryonyx-arctic-fox-pocket-stone-21.gif
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That picture tells far less than a thousand words. What are they? What abrasive? How are they used? How do they perform relative to the other pocket stone options, like diamond plates and ceramics? Where can one get them?
 
Dangerously said:
That picture tells far less than a thousand words. What are they? What abrasive? How are they used? How do they perform relative to the other pocket stone options, like diamond plates and ceramics? Where can one get them?
Click to expand...

Premium blue sapphire ANSI 400 grit on one side, 240 on the other, in a medium-hard vitrified bond. Can be used equally well with water or oil. The 400 grit side leaves a finer finish than you would likely anticipate, and cuts quickly. DBH can attest to its performance. You can find it on my site by clicking the image in my signature. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Premium blue sapphire ANSI 400 grit on one side, 240 on the other, in a medium-hard vitrified bond. Can be used equally well with water or oil. The 400 grit side leaves a finer finish than you would likely anticipate, and cuts quickly. DBH can attest to its performance. You can find it on my site by clicking the image in my signature. :)
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I'll take a look, thanks. I have signatures off, which may be why I missed that.

Wow! So inexpensive!
 
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FortyTwoBlades said:
I wouldn't consider the Sharpmaker lightweight or small. It's portable, yes, but I wouldn't be carrying it for field sharpening.
Click to expand...

For dressing game it is the right size and weight. Versatility is tough to beat. A couple of small ceramic rods in a plastic case doesn't with anything.
 
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