Recommendation? Sharpening Opinel Outdoors Serrations?

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Jun 8, 2014
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I am at a loss here... these serrations are definitely shaped unlike most regular ones. I don't think a tapered diamond rod or similar would work. There is a large burr on the serrated side of the blade, that can clearly be seen in the pic I took. Anyone have some good ideas? I have a guided Lansky, wetstones, diamond stones, strops, sandpaper, etc.
Bruce
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I'd do most or all of the real 'sharpening' flush to the back side, using the stone(s) of your preference. Then use the edge/corner of a Fine/UF hone (ceramic, etc) to clean up the burrs on the serrated side. The edge of one of your Lansky hones should work for that; maybe the 'Medium' or finer. On that note, Lansky also sells triangular hones that'd likely work pretty decently for those serrations.

Or alternatively, you could use the edge/corner of a hone to 'flip' the burrs in the serrations the other way, then gently abrade or strop them off from the backside, being careful not to flip it back to the serrated side. Still, for the bulk of the major grinding/sharpening, I'd just do that from the back side. Much less tedious that way, than trying to sharpen each serration individually.
 
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You are right - unsharpened - at least the serrated section. I have great success with serrations using the SharpMaker. My all serrated stainless Endura and my Boye Cobalt folder serrations are extremely sharp. Just never got around to needing those Opinel ones sharpened too. Obsessed with Edges offers some good technique ^.

Sorry to have left that burr :confused:

Ray
 
You are right - unsharpened - at least the serrated section. I have great success with serrations using the SharpMaker. My all serrated stainless Endura and my Boye Cobalt folder serrations are extremely sharp. Just never got around to needing those Opinel ones sharpened too. Obsessed with Edges offers some good technique ^.

Sorry to have left that burr :confused:

Ray

Hey now, no need to apologize! I am always up for a challenge! I didn't even notice the burr until I was sharpening the front un-serrated section today. I am really enjoying this knife!
Bruce
 
I'd do most or all of the real 'sharpening' flush to the back side, using the stone(s) of your preference. Then use the edge/corner of a Fine/UF hone (ceramic, etc) to clean up the burrs on the serrated side. The edge of one of your Lansky hones should work for that; maybe the 'Medium' or finer. On that note, Lansky also sells triangular hones that'd likely work pretty decently for those serrations.

Or alternatively, you could use the edge/corner of a hone to 'flip' the burrs in the serrations the other way, then gently abrade or strop them off from the backside, being careful not to flip it back to the serrated side. Still, for the bulk of the major grinding/sharpening, I'd just do that from the back side. Much less tedious that way, than trying to sharpen each serration individually.

Hmmm, a triangular hone seems like it would work well for this. I might have to order one!
Bruce
 
serrations can be sharpened to shaving sharp too, make burr on ne side and take it off on the other one,few knives that I have with serrations I sharpen on sharpmaker, touch it up, but can be sharpened on sandpaper or round hones,then stropped on strop with compound
 
Alright, I expanded on everyone's advice here and wrapped a popsicle stick in some 1000 grit paper. It worked excellently! Followed up with the strop and now those serrations are razor sharp! I really appreciate all the comments!
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Anddddd just because I modify just about everything-> I added an ez-out notch:D

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All opinels are good,i wish they made regular style blade with these plastic handles,would be awesome knife.Plastic doesnt swell,and im surprised opinel hasnt done this by now.I still keep buying opinels and have several,use them every day along with victorinox which is king for edc providing sharp thin blade and other tools
 
SHARPENING EMERGENCY !
Ohhhhhh . . . SHARPENING EMERGENCY !
Coming through . . . coming through.
(At least that's what I told The Chef to get out of washing dishes right now.)

Don't stand back !
Don't give it any air ! It'll rust.

What seems to be the problem here ?
Oh . . . saw teeth, dull saw teeth oh well . . . it's just a little bur the patient will live.

Looks like I got to you just in time though. Saw teeth should be sharpened with . . .
with. . .
saw tooth files.
No, no . . . I know it sounds crazy. Fantasy time right.
Here allow me to demonstrate :
I tested one of the triangular SAW FILES on the spine of the Opinel; see the glints where I took off the fire steel scraping edge near the point and near the pivot end of the blade. Files will act as pointers from now on.

Then it was time to see if the edge was harder than the spine. See the file width glint on the edge. It did in fact feel a bit harder. The heat treat on this particular blade was first rate by the way. I cut a big old slot in the blade all the way across and I still had to bend the blade ninety degrees like six times before it finally snapped off and that was while it was held in a vise with big channel lock pliers on the part of the blade you see here.

In any case if you can't get in the slots with the Western style saw tooth file there is always the Japanese saw Feather file shown; gets in them rather more aggressive toothies !

Ok now I think you will be fine after some retail therapy.
That was touch and go for a while there.

Dishes . . . no not right now dear . . . I have some follow up and paper work to fill out on this one . . .

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