sharpening out chips

lilknifekid

lilknifekid

Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
296
So a little while ago I put 2 sizable chips in my Gayle Bradley. Ive almost got them out but I cant seem to get the last little bit to sharpen out. I'm using a sharpmaker which I know isn't ideal but is really my only option. I must have made 900 passes and have not seen any change. So anything that you could suggest would really help me out. Thanks.
 
What steel is it? Repairing a damaged edge with a Sharpmaker is challenging enough, and a more wear-resistant steel will be even tougher. Might need a more aggressive abrasive, if the chips are very large/deep.
 
rycen said:
M4 steel
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Wow. Just looked at specs on M4. Lots of carbon, chromium, molybdenum and HUGE amounts of vanadium and tungsten to boot. Hard carbides all over the place.

I think diamond might be be the 'fix' here. Don't see the Sharpmaker fixing it anytime soon.

Edit:
OR, sending it back to the maker for re-sharpening might be worthwhile, for this one.
 
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I know the sharpmaker Isn't normally something you would use to repair an edge like this, but its the only sharpening system I have. Its actually done a really good job and gotten the chips down to the point they are not noticeable unless you know where to look. And I mean you really have to hold it close to your face and squint. When I started they were very obvious. Only now I cant get them to fully go away. I just keep sharpening and sharpening and I cant see any progress.
 
lilknifekid said:
I know the sharpmaker Isn't normally something you would use to repair an edge like this, but its the only sharpening system I have. Its actually done a really good job and gotten the chips down to the point they are not noticeable unless you know where to look. Only now I cant get them to fully go away.
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If you haven't done so already, make sure you're keeping the Sharpmaker rods as clean as possible. If they're loading up, the progress gets exponentially slower (and it sounds like you're already seeing this).
 
lilknifekid said:
I know the sharpmaker Isn't normally something you would use to repair an edge like this, but its the only sharpening system I have. Its actually done a really good job and gotten the chips down to the point they are not noticeable unless you know where to look. And I mean you really have to hold it close to your face and squint. When I started they were very obvious. Only now I cant get them to fully go away. I just keep sharpening and sharpening and I cant see any progress.
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Beside what David's said about clogged rod. Could be that, alumina (AlO) in sharpmaker ceramic rod probably became more rounded, thus greatly reduced their abrading ability. Use diamond rod instead.

Edit: although the blade hollow grinded, there is more metal going from edge to hollow shoulder
 
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bluntcut said:
Beside what David's said about clogged rod. Could be that, alumina (AlO) in sharpmaker ceramic rod probably became more rounded, thus greatly reduced their abrading ability. Use diamond rod instead.

Edit: although the blade hollow grinded, there is more metal going from edge to hollow shoulder
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If you mean the diamond rod on the sharpmaker, that is what I have been using. I actually put the edge under a microscope and I can see some progress. I don't think I've ever cleaned the diamond rods and I don't remember of the top of my head if it says to in the manual but I know I've wiped them down with a cloth. I'll see about cleaning them.
 
lilknifekid said:
If you mean the diamond rod on the sharpmaker, that is what I have been using. I actually put the edge under a microscope and I can see some progress. I don't think I've ever cleaned the diamond rods and I don't remember of the top of my head if it says to in the manual but I know I've wiped them down with a cloth. I'll see about cleaning them.
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Some Comet/Ajax & water, with a toothbrush, should work well on the diamond rods. Bar Keepers Friend works very well (probably best, actually), but you need to be careful with it (read the directions closely).
 
bluntcut said:
Beside what David's said about clogged rod. Could be that, alumina (AlO) in sharpmaker ceramic rod probably became more rounded, thus greatly reduced their abrading ability.
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As far as I know the abrasive in the Spyderco rods is synthetic sapphire. The binder is some sort of ceramic. They say the grey rods eventually wear out, but I haven't heard of anyone who reported that happening. It may have; I just haven't read or heard it.

On the original question:

The Spyderco diamond rods are kind of "medium", but should cut much faster than the grey rods. I think you're doing yourself a disservice by trying to use the Sharpmaker this way though. It's really not intended for repairing edges or reprofiling. A good inexpensive silicon carbide stone would be a great place to start.

Something like a Norton 8" coarse/fine. I've got a medium "crystolon" stone and it's very abrasive and works well. I like my DMT plates better, but it's really hard to beat the Nortons for the money.

You could also look into the Congress Tools "ruby" stones that fit the Sharpmaker. They are aluminum oxide (AlO2). Ultimately I think anyone who is "into" sharpening and knives should know how to freehand, so I encourage you to get the bench stone instead.

Best of luck to you.

Brian.
 
I fully understand if you want to fix it yourself, but also would be willing to fix it for you if you don't want to buy more suitable equipment right now. Wouldn't charge anything but return shipping--unless they're just enormous fractures, it wouldn't take more than ten or fifteen minutes to Fix them and greatly improve upon the factory edge. Normally, I'd make such an offer over email or PM but since we've never spoken I figured the public offer would seem less suspicious. :)

Up to you, but if you're going to do it yourself, you need surfaces that cut steel faster, or a LOT of patience.
 
I had a 1095 steel blade that I chipped earlier this year. It took about 2-3 months of touch-up sharpening to remove, going back to 320 grit and up to 1000 (Edge Pro Apex). I was not concerned about the chip, I wasn't going to grind away at my blade just to remove it otherwise I would have dropped down to 220, or if I got crazy, even 120, the night I got home with it. The thing is with the lower grits they remove metal exponentially faster. I just opted to keep the blade sharp, not worry about the chip, and eventually the chip went away.

If it really bothers you then grind it out. You'll need a way to take off more metal though, and a lower grit wet stone would be a good place to start. Or, sent it off to have it ground out. I would venture to say anyone that sharpens will match the angle you have, unless otherwise requested.
 
When I had some chipping on my 1095 blade, I just used the side of a waterstone to completely dull out the knife, getting rid of the chips. Within an hour I was able to sharpen it back up. Yes it does eat away at some of the steel, but just make sure you dont chip it again ;)
 
+1 what Obsessed said. Spyderco ceramic stones load up very quickly, and when they start to turn black, it's definitely time to take out the Comet/Barkeeper's Friend and Scotchbrite pad and clean them up. That said, the ceramic stones are not ideal for reprofiling or reparing. Spend the $35 and get the diamond rods. You will never regret it. :D
 
I cleaned the rods and I'm seeing faster improvement on the chips. I also contacted Spyderco but I'm afraid that since it was made in Taiwan that they will want me to send it to Taiwan. But if not then I will probably just send it to them. I also started working on the knife with the 30 degree back bevel at first because I thought that was the edge angle and I put a rather large back bevel on it but its not that big of a deal. T1mpani, I appreciate the offer, and I may just take you up on it if Spyderco doesn't have me send it to Colorado.

I actually have a diamond stone and some cheap benchstones from harbor freight, but my freehand sharpening isn't very good and I want to keep my angle consistent.
 
I hate chipping a blade, but it will happen. Seems like a good time to grab a coarse stone and practice your freehand skills. It's just a knife, you got nothing to lose and skills to gain. Stay coarses 'till you get a consistent burr and then go finer and then strop it out. As much as I hate chipping a blade, there is something very satisfying about restoring a blade to a razor edge.
 
lilknifekid said:
I cleaned the rods and I'm seeing faster improvement on the chips. I also contacted Spyderco but I'm afraid that since it was made in Taiwan that they will want me to send it to Taiwan. But if not then I will probably just send it to them. I also started working on the knife with the 30 degree back bevel at first because I thought that was the edge angle and I put a rather large back bevel on it but its not that big of a deal. T1mpani, I appreciate the offer, and I may just take you up on it if Spyderco doesn't have me send it to Colorado.

I actually have a diamond stone and some cheap benchstones from harbor freight, but my freehand sharpening isn't very good and I want to keep my angle consistent.
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I bet you they will fix it right here in the US---they have the people and the know-how, and it'd cost them far less than shipping it overseas. Sal and company are good people. :)
 
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