Sharpening preference question.

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pedicabdriver

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Nov 29, 2007
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When you're sharpening a knife, do you try to match the pre-existing bevel or do you create your own microbevel at whatever angle you prefer?

I've always used the Sharpmaker (yes, I know I need to learn to sharpen freehand), and I've noticed that whenever I sharpened a knife for the first time I was never matching the original edge and was always putting on a 30 or 40 degree microbevel.

Is there any benefit to keeping the original edge angle?
 
pedicabdriver said:
When you're sharpening a knife, do you try to match the pre-existing bevel or do you create your own microbevel at whatever angle you prefer?

I've always used the Sharpmaker (yes, I know I need to learn to sharpen freehand), and I've noticed that whenever I sharpened a knife for the first time I was never matching the original edge and was always putting on a 30 or 40 degree microbevel.

Is there any benefit to keeping the original edge angle?
Click to expand...
I do convex edges on a belt sander, I try to match the existing bevel unless I want to reprofile it.
 
Depends on the knife. For most of my harder use pocket knives, I just leave the factory edge alone until it needs a reprofile (assuming it's sharp to begin with).

But with multibladed slipjoints, I usually set my own angles since I like thinner grinds on the main blade, and usually a thicker edge on the spey blade for cutting tough materials.

With fixed blades it all depends on what I'm gonna use it for. I only have two fixed blades that see any use, and one (RTAK) is ground for chopping, and the other (old Camillus pilots knife) is ground to a general use edge... not too thin, but not too obtuse.

The only benefit to keeping the original edge is that it makes sharpening less of a hassle if you're not overly skilled at sharpening. But eventually, you will have to grind a new edge on a knife.
 
pedicabdriver said:
When you're sharpening a knife, do you try to match the pre-existing bevel or do you create your own microbevel at whatever angle you prefer?

I've always used the Sharpmaker (yes, I know I need to learn to sharpen freehand), and I've noticed that whenever I sharpened a knife for the first time I was never matching the original edge and was always putting on a 30 or 40 degree microbevel.

Is there any benefit to keeping the original edge angle?
Click to expand...


Most factory edges are uneven and or too acute so I tend to change them.
 
I have never gotten the hang of sharpening by hand on a stone, and I have practiced a lot. Due to this, I usually try to touch up the factory angle or just sharpen at 40 degrees on the sharpmaker, being that it takes a pretty long time to reprofile an edge on the sharpmaker stones.
 
Bax Axe said:
I have never gotten the hang of sharpening by hand on a stone, and I have practiced a lot. Due to this, I usually try to touch up the factory angle or just sharpen at 40 degrees on the sharpmaker, being that it takes a pretty long time to reprofile an edge on the sharpmaker stones.
Click to expand...

If you buy the Diamond rods it will speed things up quite a bit for you.
 
Ankerson said:
Most factory edges are uneven and or too acute so I tend to change them.
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:confused: In my experience factory edges tend to be just the opposite, way too thick.

When I get a new knife/steel I usually just keep thinning the edge bevel with each successive sharpening until I notice rolling, denting or chipping doing the usual tasks I expect of the knife. Then I thicken it up a bit and that's the bevel I continue to use. A thinner edge cuts better, so I strive to get all that the steel has to offer.
 
I generally keep reprofiling to a more acute angle in each resharpening until I get edge failure in use or it cuts like I want for the tasks I use that knife for.
 
theonew said:
:confused: In my experience factory edges tend to be just the opposite, way too thick.

When I get a new knife/steel I usually just keep thinning the edge bevel with each successive sharpening until I notice rolling, denting or chipping doing the usual tasks I expect of the knife. Then I thicken it up a bit and that's the bevel I continue to use. A thinner edge cuts better, so I strive to get all that the steel has to offer.
Click to expand...

I tend to like 15 to 20 degrees for best results, I won't go below 15 degrees.

I have seen some in the 10 degree range and others in the + 25 degree range.

Most seem to vary from side to side and even on the same side as much as +5 degrees.

So I reprofile them all.
 
It really depends on the type of knife and how suitable the factory edge is for my intended usage whether or not I change the angle and/or grind style. I usually do some work on knives I intend to use purely for the personal satisfaction I get from bettering a factory edge - - irrespective of whether or not I decide to retain the original angle.
 
I regrind every blade immediately to my preferred angles. I always want my blades sharpened to my preference rather than to someone else's. If you continue doing what you are doing, you will always have a slightly more obtuse angle with each sharpening and continue to make your knife duller and duller. The Sharpmaker, handy as it is, is not a good tool for grinding bevels. Think of it as a touch up tool and get something that is appropriate for grinding bevels.
 
Knife Outlet said:
I regrind every blade immediately to my preferred angles. I always want my blades sharpened to my preference rather than to someone else's. If you continue doing what you are doing, you will always have a slightly more obtuse angle with each sharpening and continue to make your knife duller and duller. The Sharpmaker, handy as it is, is not a good tool for grinding bevels. Think of it as a touch up tool and get something that is appropriate for grinding bevels.
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The Sharpmaker is limited yes, but if one uses a 40 degree edge and cuts a 30 degree back bevel when needed it does work fine and you can get some incredibly sharp edges with the UF rods. :)

However it does take time to re profile on a Sharpmaker even with the Diamond rods depending on the steel.

But yes I agree that getting something like an Edge Pro is better. :)
 
I convex everything. So in many cases this means removing the factory bevel, although the angle often remains similar.

Kevin
 
pedicabdriver said:
I've always used the Sharpmaker (yes, I know I need to learn to sharpen freehand
Click to expand...

Unless you have a clamp you use to hold the blade, the Sharpmaker is freehand sharpening. You just have the stones turned so its easy to judge and hold the angle by eye, at 90*.
 
me2 said:
Unless you have a clamp you use to hold the blade, the Sharpmaker is freehand sharpening. You just have the stones turned so its easy to judge and hold the angle by eye, at 90*.
Click to expand...

Yep it is. ;)
 
Nearly all the folders I own get a 17 degree lansky treatment, unless the factory grind offers something special.

Most fixed blades I go 20 degree or sandpaper & mouse pad for a convex chopper.

I reprofile nearly everything anyway, just for my own personal satisfaction.

:)
 
I purchased a custom knife with a hideously uneven grind,it was bad. I had these cheap diamond stones purchased from one of those truck load sales. I used rubberbands to fasten the coarse one to my ceramic rods and reprofiled the knife to the exact angle of the rods. The knife is much better now. The three diamond stones were five dollars.
 
I usually follow the factory bevel then see how it cuts. If I don't like it then I change it to my liking.

Ric
 
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