Sharpening problem

Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Messages
154
I bought this since i really sucks at using whet stones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00032S02K
Im having a problem tho the ceramic part seems to make one side of my blade have these thin pieces of metal at the edge which come off easily but why is it happening am i pressing too hard ?
 
Those thin shards are likely being created on the carbide side, and then the ceramic is knocking them loose. That's basically what these types of 'pull-through' sharpeners do. The carbide side basically 'rips' the steel, due to the 'pinching' effect the inserts have. They really do more damage than good, in terms of blade life.

41ntEe5E%2B6L.jpg
 
Are you using the carbide section at all? The ceramic could be removing shavings the carbide is leaving behind. Another option might be if it's only happening at the tip or heel, you could just be forming a burr. And as a warning, you may get some flack for using a pull through sharpener. Some here are not really big fans of them, for some good reasons. Personally, i think they have their place like any other sharpening device. just and fyi
 
Those thin shards are likely being created on the carbide side, and then the ceramic is knocking them loose. That's basically what these types of 'pull-through' sharpeners do. The carbide side basically 'rips' the steel, due to the 'pinching' effect the inserts have. They really do more damage than good, in terms of blade life.

41ntEe5E%2B6L.jpg

Saw that thing and my first thought was 'UGH!!!'. My advice, get a Spyderco Sharpmaker and a good leather strop. This will run you about $70 total. It's what I use and well worth the money to me. I can get scary sharp edges on all my knives with it.
 
Well I'm just stupid cause I can't get the right angle when using my tri whetstone. I do not use the carbide on my new blades only the ceramic side. I have used the carbide to sharpen a junky 10$ balisong because it is was extremely dull, it did take off a lot of steel the harder I pressed. Anyways the ceramic side is causing long little piece of metal from the heel to the tip the only way to stop it is turn the knife to around 1oclock than 11oclock to get rid of the burs. I bought Smith's 4in1 sharpener last night for $10 shipped it will be here next week, I want the spyderco sharpmaker™ but I can't afford it right now and I'm afraid I will mess up my blades.
 
Yes, you'll probably mess up your blades with the carbide side.

The problem with those little crock sticks is that they are loaded with metal in that one little spot the first time you pull it through where they cross. The best you can hope for is they turn a bit, but I haven't seen one.

You could try sliding your blade down them, but it looks like you only have 5/8" of that.

They just aren't recommended, and the Sharpmaker is too expensive... I'd look for a cheaper set of ceramic rods.

Google "crock sticks" maybe. At least you'll have a built in angle or two. (Two is twice as good)
 
Well I'm just stupid cause I can't get the right angle when using my tri whetstone. I do not use the carbide on my new blades only the ceramic side. I have used the carbide to sharpen a junky 10$ balisong because it is was extremely dull, it did take off a lot of steel the harder I pressed. Anyways the ceramic side is causing long little piece of metal from the heel to the tip the only way to stop it is turn the knife to around 1oclock than 11oclock to get rid of the burs. I bought Smith's 4in1 sharpener last night for $10 shipped it will be here next week, I want the spyderco sharpmaker™ but I can't afford it right now and I'm afraid I will mess up my blades.

It does sound like you've got a full-length burr (a.k.a. wire edge), and that's not necessarily a bad thing. It would indicate the edge is fully apexed, which is where you need to be. This is where some stropping could help, if it's delicate and fine enough to break off, as you've described.

I'd still encourage getting accustomed to using another tool, such as your Smith's 4-in-1. The crossed carbide/ceramic pull-throughs are very limited in what can be accomplished, due to the one fixed angle, and that once the bevel is ground to fit the angle, the edge basically bottoms out in the 'V' formed between the inserts. That limits how fine/sharp the edge can get. It's a functional edge, in the most basic sense, but other methods can do much better, with some practice. :)
 
Going to buy the lansky crock sticks off amazon its $15 cones with a nice wooden base :thumbup:

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Crock-Sharpener-LCD5D/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1355012892&sr=8-1&keywords=crock+stick


Yup I can use my fingers to remove the burs problem is if I don't when slicing paper it is notable
 
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