Sharpening Problem

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MatthewSB

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Feb 1, 2013
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I recently bought a Wicked Edge, with 'stones' from 100 to 1000 grit. I've done a dozen or so knives so far, but have had trouble with two of them. Both knives had uneven factory grinds, where one side was steeper than the other. With the angles set to 20 degrees on one side and 22 on the other (to take the blade thickness into consideration) I'm ending up with an edge that looks like a check mark at the tip (the bevel is twice as long on one side as the other). The longer side is the one that required the most sharpening to correct the inconsistent factory angle.

I don't think that the "checkmark" profile is from one side being 2 degrees different from the other.

I believe that it is a result of having to remove so much material from one side to correct the inconsistent factory bevel, and not the other, am I correct?

If so, will it eventually even out if I focus more on the side with the shorter bevel?
 
MatthewSB said:
I believe that it is a result of having to remove so much material from one side to correct the inconsistent factory bevel, and not the other, am I correct?

If so, will it eventually even out if I focus more on the side with the shorter bevel?
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you correctly, you are sharpening at two different angles which does mean you are taking more off of one side and will result in a check mark... you should keep both angles at 20 and reprofile so that both sides have the same angle (you would still be taking more from one side, but only enough to mirror the other once at 20°).

You'll only be even if you have both at the same angle, and even then, make sure your edge stays centered at 90° (in other words once you're angles are aligned, don't continue to overdo one side vs the other).
 
drrickso said:
If I'm understanding you correctly, you are sharpening at two different angles which does mean you are taking more off of one side and will result in a check mark... you should keep both angles at 20 and reprofile so that both sides have the same angle (you would still be taking more from one side, but only enough to mirror the other once at 20°).

You'll only be even if you have both at the same angle, and even then, make sure your edge stays centered at 90° (in other words once you're angles are aligned, don't continue to overdo one side vs the other).
Click to expand...

I thought that the angle markings on the arms of the Wicked Edge need to be set differently depending on the blade thickness. The 20 degree mark can't be 20 degrees on a 1/32" kitchen knife and 20 degrees on a 5/32" ZT 0550. Using the "22" setting on the arm lined up with most of the factory edge.

Like I said, I'm all confused about this and might be doing it wrong.
 
id suggest getting an angle cube so that you can see exactly what the angle is when you rest the stone against he blade... I understand what you are saying, but before I got the upgraded arms and cube, I'd leave my clamp base screw loose so that I can center the blade perfectly before setting it to sharpen and once centered id set the arms at the same angle.
 
I would second what Derrick said... you need to get an angle cube from the local hardware store first of all. This is for multiple reasons, one of which you pointed out - that the right, non-fixed portion of the jaw moves and therefore you will have to adjust the right rod accordingly depending on how thick of a knife you are doing.

After getting the angle cube, please report back and maybe we can help you further.

This may help too. Something many people don't think about is that maybe the primary grind angles are off somewhat:

[video=youtube;_eNKG5EMWlM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eNKG5EMWlM[/video]
 
i thought that the blade has to be inline with spine to get corect angle.in other words when we lean or tip the blade to lay flat on the guide then angle changes, not??..to have perfect angle the back and front have to be horizontal not sharp side laying down on plate...but im not expert just use common sense..jeff
 
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