sharpening q's

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weety

Joined
Aug 30, 2006
Messages
41
1) Can anyone recommend a sharpening service in the Chicago Land area or even send –away-service on the internet? I know certain knife have do a proprietary sharpening services and refuse to take other people’s blades so ideas??

2) Any suggestion of sharpening shear on the Spyderco Tri-angular sharpmaker when the angle of the shears is not 12.5 that is a default. Freehand with the stones??

3) I’m looking for the best way to ‘reprofile’ an abused edge. I have blades where there a ‘nicks’ in the edge surface. Spyderco reps told be just to grind away….Is there a better way? Should I go to a 30 degree grind or stay with the 40 degree?

4) I have seen posts referring to a 20 degree angle is this the same a the 40 degree on the Spyderco Tri-angular sharpmaker (20 X 2 = 40???) :confused:

Many thanks

Weety
 
2) Any suggestion of sharpening shear on the Spyderco Tri-angular sharpmaker when the angle of the shears is not 12.5 that is a default. Freehand with the stones??
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Freehand is probably your best bet. But the stones are fairly fine, how much metal do you need to remove?

3) I’m looking for the best way to ‘reprofile’ an abused edge. I have blades where there a ‘nicks’ in the edge surface. Spyderco reps told be just to grind away….Is there a better way? Should I go to a 30 degree grind or stay with the 40 degree?
Click to expand...

All you can do is grind away if you want to remove the nicks. You can't add metal back in, so you have to take away the surrounding. Depending on how you damaged the edge, you might need to stay at 40 included to leave enough metal at the edge to handle the cutting tasks. What kind of knife, what kind of cutting, on what kind of materials, and what kind of damage are we looking at? If your blade can't handle the task without damage below 20 degrees per side, you might want a better knife (steeel, heat treat) for the job. The thinner you can go with an edge, the better your knife is at... being a knife.

4) I have seen posts referring to a 20 degree angle is this the same a the 40 degree on the Spyderco Tri-angular sharpmaker (20 X 2 = 40???) :confused:
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It depends on who's talking. Could be 20 degrees included (10 oer side), or 40 @ 20 per side like on the SM.
 
hardheart said:
how much metal do you need to remove?
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There are a few nicks less that a a fraction of a milli-meter in the shears and paring knife that I'd like to get rid of. For the shears it does interfere with smooth closing (We're talking as if one took a blade and just tapped the shears hard) . I'm not sure if I should just grind away. On the shears my triangular sharpmaker cannot match the shear’s angle do freehand I have a feeling will be prone to something less than straight.

[/QUOTE]
What kind of knife, [/QUOTE]
Wustoff-Trident -paring knife

[/QUOTE]
what kind of cutting, on what kind of materials, and what kind of damage are we looking at? [/QUOTE]

paring knife so...it's my ED utility knife aka letter opener/box cutter etc.

[/QUOTE]
The thinner you can go with an edge, the better your knife is at... being a knife.
[/QUOTE]

I was lead to believe that thinner increases wear + creates more problems i.e. easier to nick-true?

Many Many Thanks!!!!

Weety
 
quick fyi-drop the '/' on the first [/quote] for each statement to get them to work

The thinner the edge, the higher the cutting ability remains after blunting. Damage is more likely, but this is where steel choices come in. More knowledgable people will comment further and really help you out, just wanted to get the ball rolling.
 
weety said:
I was lead to believe that thinner increases wear + creates more problems i.e. easier to nick-true?
Click to expand...

There is some point at while if you reduce the angle futher then performance will decrease rapidly as you pass the structural integrity of the steel. However in general this cross section is usually far lower than usually advocated. For general cutting use for example, both initial cutting ability and time between sharpening is greatly increased by going from 20 to 15 degrees. As well, if there is damage and the edge needs to be increased in angle, usually the entire edge doesn't need to be increased, just the last bit.

-Cliff
 
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