Sharpening question for all you seasoned INFI bruisers!

SavageSmurf

SavageSmurf

Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
908
So I've got this Sarge thing.. not sure who makes it, some French company I think (Boo-swaa?). Anyway, I like sharpening on my belt sander, I take em from 40 to 2000 grit, and then leather strop to finish. Only started a few months ago, but I had TONS of junk blanks to practice on. By the time I sacked up, held my breath, and convexed my first slice of INFI, I had enough practice beforehand that my edges have been consistently coming out fairly sexified. That said, this Sarge 7 does not seem to have a bevel. So.. even if i try to get it as close to the original grind of the blade as possible, I'm sure there will still be a slightly noticeable change in degree from where the factory grind ends and my new convexed bevel begins. What do you hogs do? Is there a method I havn't considered? I'd hate to send it in.. I feel like that's taking the easy way out lol.. Any and all advice appreciated, thanks!
 
I think I missed something... what is currently wrong with the existing edge on the SARGE 7? :confused: Did you use/dull it, or are you wanting to sharpen it for the heck of it? Pics/more info would help us give you better advice. ;)
 
If there's no bevel, it's probably a 'zero' edge. It's a full convex grind right to the cutting edge. I have a SAR6 and a NMSFNO with the same grind. Easy to keep sharp on a strop.
 
I agree with Rob and Peter as well...

Disclaimer: I can't count myself as a seasoned INFI bruiser and I also am pretty new to maintaining convexed edges, having only started doing it on my anorexic B4 last week, but here's what I can offer you:


I've already dulled my Sarge a bit after giving it a bunch of use last week and weekend. I spent around 15-20 minutes on my super budget strop setup (using 3 progressively finer compounds on three loose pieces of leather over a text book) and not only managed to bring it to hair-whittling sharpness, but also worked out a couple very tiny dings I put in the edge while having my fun.

Being the total sharpening fool-amateur that I am, I am quite happy with the results and highly recommend a loaded strop for standard edge maintenance and working out minor imperfections. I still haven't figured out if this will work for larger edge rolls/chips, but I'll let you know when I do :thumbup:

Based on my limited experience I say loaded strop!

Good luck...
 
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You can also try 3000 grit sandpaper on top of the strop or a mouse pad or something with a tiny bit of cushion. a few strokes on both sides and then finishing off with the strop. This works great for me every time. If I've really dulled the edge , I spend more time on the sand paper.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys, sorry AZTimT I dont have any pictures. Never have a camera on me. Similar to Hookahhabib there's a small ding (roll) in the edge of the blade. Its too small to affect performance, but my understanding is that if you get a roll, it should be sharpened out to prevent chipping (if I'm wrong, let me know). I've ran it under a kalamazoo leather strop loaded with polishing compound, and it's made the knife VERY sharp, but the roll is still there. Its far too small to show up in pictures, but when light hits the edge, it can be seen. If you guys don't think its an issue, I'll just keep using the knife, but if sharpening it out IS the way to go, I was just looking for suggestions on sharpening (not stropping, because the strop hasnt taken it out) the SAR series grinds. Thanks fellas!
 
If you have a roll in the edge then you want to realign it with a smooth steel. Make sure it is smooth and not grooved. The grooved steel will grab the rolled edge and tear away material.
INFI has great malability so it rolls instead of chips. Just realign the edge and then strop. You shouldn't need to sharpen (remove material) unless you actually see chipping.


∞
 
I have herd that using a ceramic rod in the direction of the blade (back wards) can remove dings in INFI.
But If the ding is not affecting performance I would continue to use and enjoy it.
Eventually you will finally reach the ding on one of your touch up sessions and you can work it out then.
 
RobStanley said:
If there's no bevel, it's probably a 'zero' edge. It's a full convex grind right to the cutting edge. I have a SAR6 and a NMSFNO with the same grind. Easy to keep sharp on a strop.
Click to expand...

If it is a full height convex zero edge then yeah a strop. If a belt sander is already in the comfort zone then a leather belt with a compound. As long as you don't dent it up there are actually more abrasive compounds you can use on separate leather belts for more aggressive sharpening. From what I have found though is once I get a good zero edge a leather belt and green compound is all I need to keep it scary.

It removes steel faster then you may think.

Edit to add, you can even get dents out with leather and the right compound.
 
What RVO3VOM said. I just use a long screwdriver shaft to steel dings out. Easy as. Then a hit on the leather strop, doneski!
 
Aright guys, thanks for the information. I'll try wiping a screwdriver or whatever smooth metal I can find against the edge, and then run it under the strop a few more times. If it doesn't get it completely out, I'll order another belt and use an aggressive compound, the one I'm using now is green compound. Thanks for all the replies and useful info!
 
Even if the roll in the edge stays, it will not chip out. Just enjoy your knife, use it, and eventually it will sharpen out.
 
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