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Sharpening Question for Opinel
- Thread starter Redhat
- Start date
Thanks, should be able to do that with my Lansky.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2006
- Messages
- 3,079
Opinels are the easiest knives to sharpen, I probably sharpen mine at about 15 degrees per side, but 20 will work fine as well.
If by kitchen sharpener you mean one of those electric models, avoid at all costs, not to mention that you wouldn’t be able to sharpening the rear of the edge with one of those.
The blades are very thin and pretty soft, very easy to set whatever angle you want.
If by kitchen sharpener you mean one of those electric models, avoid at all costs, not to mention that you wouldn’t be able to sharpening the rear of the edge with one of those.
The blades are very thin and pretty soft, very easy to set whatever angle you want.
I just sort of eyeballed a fairly acute angle on my Arkansas stone, followed by a fine ceramic rod then strop.
I use it mainly for stripping bark and gross material removal for little wood carving projects, and just a couple of quick passes over the ceramic rod fixes it right up afterwards. I can’t remember the last time I needed to use the stone.
Stropping on 2000-grit wet-dry sandpaper on a paint stirrer works well for touchups as well (I forget who on here gave me that idea).
I use it mainly for stripping bark and gross material removal for little wood carving projects, and just a couple of quick passes over the ceramic rod fixes it right up afterwards. I can’t remember the last time I needed to use the stone.
Stropping on 2000-grit wet-dry sandpaper on a paint stirrer works well for touchups as well (I forget who on here gave me that idea).
afishhunter
Basic Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 14,760
I took my Opinel N°6 to 10° per side/20° inclusive on a guided rod sharpener.
Freehand I was taught to lay the blade flat on the stone, raise the spine 1/8 inch so the blade flats clear the stone, then push across the stone. At the end of the stroke lower the spine until it is touching the stone, raise the blade, flip over, and repeat.
Raising the spine 1/8 inch gives you a 10° bevel per side, ± 1.5 ~2 degrees.
I have not had any issues using such a keen edge on any of my pocket knives over the last 62 or so years. I've never had an edge chip. If it rolls (rare) a plain dry strop or a butcher steel** repairs/restores the edge. A keen ~20° inclusive edge holds a working edge longer than a 30° + inclusive edge, too.
**contrary to "popular belief" a groved butcher's steel does not remove any blade material.
Freehand I was taught to lay the blade flat on the stone, raise the spine 1/8 inch so the blade flats clear the stone, then push across the stone. At the end of the stroke lower the spine until it is touching the stone, raise the blade, flip over, and repeat.
Raising the spine 1/8 inch gives you a 10° bevel per side, ± 1.5 ~2 degrees.
I have not had any issues using such a keen edge on any of my pocket knives over the last 62 or so years. I've never had an edge chip. If it rolls (rare) a plain dry strop or a butcher steel** repairs/restores the edge. A keen ~20° inclusive edge holds a working edge longer than a 30° + inclusive edge, too.
**contrary to "popular belief" a groved butcher's steel does not remove any blade material.
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- Joined
- May 13, 2019
- Messages
- 8,178
Mine came sharpened at 20% per side, checked with an angle cube, so i just kept mine at that. I use my Lansky Crock Stick Turnbox, keeps it razor sharp.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,496
Opinel's stainless is pretty good steel - Sandvik 12C27Mod. It's likely heat-treated harder than their 'Carbone' blades. The 12C27Mod stainless is spec'd by Sandvik to be hardenable up to HRC 59. And I think Opinel probably got it somewhere close to that - I'd bet somewhere in the HRC 57-59 range. Opinel's 'Carbone' (XC90) steel seems to be softer than that - maybe mid-50s HRC or so. But if used as fine slicer, it takes a wickedly fine & sharp edge.
When I first acquired 3 of my Opinels (2 in stainless, 1 in 'Carbone"), I made it sort of a pet project to thin 2 of them out using sandpaper and take them narrower in edge angle. Both of them ended up somewhere at or slightly below 25° inclusive. The 'Carbone' was likely a bit thinner - it grinds much easier than the stainless does - and its edge tended to be a little more delicate and vulnerable to damage by impact or rolling. But the stainless blade has turned out more robust in edge durability than the 'Carbone'. The two I thinned out are shown in the pic below - they're the 2nd & 3rd from the top. I didn't mess with the blade on the upper one - at least not yet.
If you're not doing any real rough work or abusive stuff with the knife, then anything in the 25°-30° inclusive range can work very well with an Opinel. They're great slicers with an edge set in that ballpark.
When I first acquired 3 of my Opinels (2 in stainless, 1 in 'Carbone"), I made it sort of a pet project to thin 2 of them out using sandpaper and take them narrower in edge angle. Both of them ended up somewhere at or slightly below 25° inclusive. The 'Carbone' was likely a bit thinner - it grinds much easier than the stainless does - and its edge tended to be a little more delicate and vulnerable to damage by impact or rolling. But the stainless blade has turned out more robust in edge durability than the 'Carbone'. The two I thinned out are shown in the pic below - they're the 2nd & 3rd from the top. I didn't mess with the blade on the upper one - at least not yet.
If you're not doing any real rough work or abusive stuff with the knife, then anything in the 25°-30° inclusive range can work very well with an Opinel. They're great slicers with an edge set in that ballpark.
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