Sharpening question?

farcry33

farcry33

Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
157
Hi everybody,

I'm new to the blade forum and knife collecting. I own three knives; Spyderco Manix 2 translucent blue, Kershaw Blur and Kershaw Knockout. As you can see I tried sharpening my Spyderco Manix 2 and I saw an uneven edge from the base of the knife to the tip (almost rounded the tip). I am using a Work Sharp tool sharpener and I tried searching on this site for hours about my problem with no luck. Unless I overlooked a thread and missed it, any tips are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 
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Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new Work Sharp. It looks like you made the two classic Work Sharp beginner mistakes.
You created a re curve and rounded the tip.

There are some great threads on the WS you just have to find them. I don't know how to post them but I tell you where they are.
Do a search in the box for "best sharpening system for novice". Click on that and go to the 4th post. There you will find two very help full links.

Pick up some cheap practice knives and go at it. You will be pumping out perfect razor sharp edges in no time.
 
Hey, thanks for the reply. I tried my best with this knife but the its killing me. I'm trying to find some information on how to re-profile the tip back to a point and even the rear of the edge.
 
The problem with the tip is that you pulled the blade all the way through the belt. You need to go up to the 1/2 way point of the belt (hard to do with just a 1/2 inch belt) and lift the blade away. This takes practice and good timing. You have to really be paying attention. The "dip in the blade near the choil is caused by starting the belt and not immediately start the blade moving, therefore causing excess grinding of the blade. The secret of success with the Work Sharp is to use light (almost no) pressure and let the belt do the work and keep the blade moving. Just make several light passes and watch your blade for clues to when it is where you want it. Also no need to use the coarse (80 grit) belt on a folder or kitchen knife. Also get some cheap thrift store knives, usually for about $1 each to practice on. Will be well worth the price and effort.

At this point I would let the point and the rear go until you have some practice under your belt before trying to re-profile it. Practice (on something cheap) makes perfect. Your tool will turn out some great sharp blades with practice. Hang in there!

Blessings,

Omar
 
OHALLUM said:
The problem with the tip is that you pulled the blade all the way through the belt. You need to go up to the 1/2 way point of the belt (hard to do with just a 1/2 inch belt) and lift the blade away. This takes practice and good timing. You have to really be paying attention. The "dip in the blade near the choil is caused by starting the belt and not immediately start the blade moving, therefore causing excess grinding of the blade. The secret of success with the Work Sharp is to use light (almost no) pressure and let the belt do the work and keep the blade moving. Just make several light passes and watch your blade for clues to when it is where you want it. Also no need to use the coarse (80 grit) belt on a folder or kitchen knife. Also get some cheap thrift store knives, usually for about $1 each to practice on. Will be well worth the price and effort.

At this point I would let the point and the rear go until you have some practice under your belt before trying to re-profile it. Practice (on something cheap) makes perfect. Your tool will turn out some great sharp blades with practice. Hang in there!

Blessings,

Omar
Click to expand...
^ :thumbup:

OP: Good that You didn't burned the tip. Since it's very easy to burn it because there is so much less metal at the tip. Beside tilt + 1/2 way point mentioned by Omar, I would add that you ease the pressure to 1/2 as the tip about the to enter the belt. Doing this because there will be less & less bevel surface as the tip traverse inward. e.g at 1/2 point, there is only half bevel surface area, hence 2x pressure.

Belt sharpening for the heel is slightly more complex than the tip. You need to lean the heel into the belt and gradually straighten out as the belt about 1 belt width away from the heel.

Practice & practice
 
I'm going to try it and I know I'm going to end up buying another Spyderco Manix 2, since I messed this one up. I'm gonna look in some stores for some cheap practice knives or go on Bladehq. Thank you everybody for the great information and tips.
 
farcry33 said:
When you mean, "lean the heel towards the belt." Do mean free hand or guide?
Click to expand...
Freehanding.

"Lean the heel..." which ensure the heel area receive enough abrasion by increase pressure. And at the same time gradually unlean/flatten-out will blend the area 0.7 to 2 belt width from heel. This area is most prone to over grinding mistake. It's simple to see that bevel contact with belt for area heel+1belt away is 1 belt width of movement, while at the very heel only receive a tiny fraction of a belt width. Hence lean into will compensate but avoid spend extra time at the heel. Thereby avoid over grinding the heel+(0.7 to 2 beltwidth) area.
 
I'm gonna test that out since I already messed up my Manix 2. I still think I can save it, but to be safe I'm looking at some other folding knives to practice with. I'm going to take a lot of material off to fix my Manix 2 right? I drew up a template, and want to see your input on the angle.

 
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