Sharpening question

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Apr 27, 2016
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Hi, i'm new to the forums so I hope I put this in the right place. I've always sharpened my own knives using the sharpmaker and its worked well for me but I've never tried sharpening the harder steels. I've been tempted to get knives with s90v m390 and 110v. Will the sharpmaker be sufficient for these steels? If not is there another method anyone could recommend? I use all of my knives and don't want to end up with something I can't sharpen myself. Any advise would be much appreciated.
Thank you
 
if your happy with the edge angle it will work fine but if you want to re-profile a blade to a different angle the sharpmaker is not the way to go IMO.
you can get diamond and cubic boron nitride rods for the sharpmaker that will be plenty hard enough to keep any blade sharp, but the key is to keep it sharp. dont let it get too dull or you will end up spending a ton of time getting the edge back on the high carbide steels. its always better to keep it sharp with frequent touch ups.

I use a lansky type system when i re-profile a blade to a different angle or if its very dull but i dont recommend them for frequent touch-ups, either use something like a sharpmaker or even just a plain fine or ultra fine flatstone. if you do it often, you will only have to spend a min or two on it each time.
 
Thanks that helps. So if I just touch them up with the fine, ultra fine stones, maybe strop them I wont get into too much trouble.
 
The ceramic will cut any steel. Enjoy :)

Well... not exactly.

It's a very hard material but it's still derived from aluminum oxide. Alumina ceramics are even "softer" than Silicon Carbide... which is softer than the Carbides in advanced PM alloys like those listed in the OP. Diamond or CBN still reign supreme when dealing with high alloy steels.
 
Well... not exactly.

It's a very hard material but it's still derived from aluminum oxide. Alumina ceramics are even "softer" than Silicon Carbide... which is softer than the Carbides in advanced PM alloys like those listed in the OP. Diamond or CBN still reign supreme when dealing with high alloy steels.

Right on Jason,

Do you only use diamonds and CBN strips on those steels?

What are the consequences of using ceramics?

I've been using ceramics on my 940-1 and pm2 S110v and they work great.
 
It will mostly go unnoiticed to many but if you pay close attention while sharpening and test different abrasives then it becomes more clear. I don't really know how to put into words the feeling the edge gives my fingertips when the abrasive is not cutting the carbides. Best I can say is, the edge will develop more burr and be rather difficult to remove and obtain a nice crisp edge. It's often much smoother than it should be for the finished grit and lacks the bite you would get with a lower alloy steel on the same stone. A cloudy polish is another indicator.
 
It will mostly go unnoiticed to many but if you pay close attention while sharpening and test different abrasives then it becomes more clear. I don't really know how to put into words the feeling the edge gives my fingertips when the abrasive is not cutting the carbides. Best I can say is, the edge will develop more burr and be rather difficult to remove and obtain a nice crisp edge. It's often much smoother than it should be for the finished grit and lacks the bite you would get with a lower alloy steel on the same stone. A cloudy polish is another indicator.

Fascinating, always something to learn.

I'm going to check it out

Thanks Jason
 
Per Jason's comments about the 'feel' of how the ceramic's abrasive struggles to cut the carbides:

I always had the sensation that ceramics tended to 'skate' across high-carbide steels without getting much bite. I used to notice it with some steels way back when I didn't understand the mechansim of what was happening while using a ceramic, and it always bugged me. I sort of equate the sensation to that of a snow shovel skating across the aggregate pebbles in the surface of concrete, or even how one's shoe might 'skate' over a polished floor if there's a thumbtack stuck in the sole of the shoe. Also similar to how ceramics feel when they get severely loaded up and don't bite the steel anymore.

I don't like to use ceramics on high-vanadium steel at all anymore, for the above reasons. I tend to believe a more suitable abrasive (diamond/cbn) will always do a better job, especially at the refining end when the size of the carbides starts to be an additional obstacle to an abrasive not hard enough to cut or shape them cleanly. That means if I'm looking to finish the bevels at a similar polish as a Fine/UF ceramic might give on other less wear-resistant steels, I'll likely choose something like an EF/EEF diamond hone instead.


David
 
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