Hello everyone. I just picked up a Zero Tolerance 0350 with S30v steel and it doesn't really seem that sharp to me. I tried sharpening it with a Spyderco Triangle system and it still doesn't seem that great to me. The Spyderco comes razor sharp from the factory and that is what I was aiming for. Anyone have the same experience with the ZT knives?
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Sharpening question
- Thread starter jpero888
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- Sep 19, 2001
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the sharpmaker stones remove metal slowly, and they do it at fixed angles in the base. You have a couple possible issues.
1. The stones are not sharpening the edge. Color the edge bevel with a marker, and then do a few passes on the sharpener. Look to see where the ink is removed.
2. The angle is right, but the knife is too dull. If all the ink is removed from the bevel, then the edge and the sharpmaker stones are at the same angle. Still, the medium stone is comparable to about an 800 grit waterstone, which is very fine if you need to remove considerable amounts of steel to sharpen a dull knife. S30V is also fairly wear resistant, so not a lot of metal is removed on each stroke.
1. The stones are not sharpening the edge. Color the edge bevel with a marker, and then do a few passes on the sharpener. Look to see where the ink is removed.
2. The angle is right, but the knife is too dull. If all the ink is removed from the bevel, then the edge and the sharpmaker stones are at the same angle. Still, the medium stone is comparable to about an 800 grit waterstone, which is very fine if you need to remove considerable amounts of steel to sharpen a dull knife. S30V is also fairly wear resistant, so not a lot of metal is removed on each stroke.
s30v isnt the fastest steel to sharpen, very wear resistant.
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diamond rods
David Martin
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jpero, You can do it using the Spyderco med. rod it will just take some time, maybe an hour . The diamond rods on that system work faster with any steel . DM
jpero----
I've been there! I have the Sharpmaker as well. As others have mentioned, there's a good chance your knife needs reprofiling before going to the SM. "Hardheart" is right on----you can do it using the coarser rods on the SM "backbevel" setting, but this can take a very long time, especially if you need to thin the blade significantly.
After reading many great reviews and watching some vids on the Edge Pro "Apex", I bought one for this reason. I recently reprofiled the edge on a full-size Ka-Bar. It works beautifully, the bevel looks great, and most importantly, this allows you to go to the 40 degree edge rods on your Sharpmaker where it's then a quick process to bring up a razor edge with 20 LIGHT strokes per side. The edge can then be easily maintained for a long time by using the Sharpmaker alone.
But the thinning down or re-profiling is where something like the Edge Pro really shines. Yes, you could do it freehand on a bench grinder or belt sander using a LIGHT TOUCH and dipping in cold water often and then finishing with the Sharpmaker, but the main bevel (primary or back bevel) looks factory clean and neat using the EP. It can also be polished to a mirror finish with the EP by using finer and finer grits if you are that patient or crazy, but it's not needed really. I like things precise and to look "factory-ground" (or better!) so I love the way I can do this with my new favorite tool---the Edge Pro.
I've been there! I have the Sharpmaker as well. As others have mentioned, there's a good chance your knife needs reprofiling before going to the SM. "Hardheart" is right on----you can do it using the coarser rods on the SM "backbevel" setting, but this can take a very long time, especially if you need to thin the blade significantly.
After reading many great reviews and watching some vids on the Edge Pro "Apex", I bought one for this reason. I recently reprofiled the edge on a full-size Ka-Bar. It works beautifully, the bevel looks great, and most importantly, this allows you to go to the 40 degree edge rods on your Sharpmaker where it's then a quick process to bring up a razor edge with 20 LIGHT strokes per side. The edge can then be easily maintained for a long time by using the Sharpmaker alone.
But the thinning down or re-profiling is where something like the Edge Pro really shines. Yes, you could do it freehand on a bench grinder or belt sander using a LIGHT TOUCH and dipping in cold water often and then finishing with the Sharpmaker, but the main bevel (primary or back bevel) looks factory clean and neat using the EP. It can also be polished to a mirror finish with the EP by using finer and finer grits if you are that patient or crazy, but it's not needed really. I like things precise and to look "factory-ground" (or better!) so I love the way I can do this with my new favorite tool---the Edge Pro.
Last edited:
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- Oct 19, 2009
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A big +1 for the Edge Pro. I also have the Apex, and I've yet to see a prettier or sharper edge on a knife than the ones I get using the Apex.
If you invest the time at the 220 or 320 grit, the higher grits go pretty fast, just a few passes with each if your angles are right.
If you invest the time at the 220 or 320 grit, the higher grits go pretty fast, just a few passes with each if your angles are right.