Sharpening Re-Curves & HAWKBILLS

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Nov 20, 2004
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AS some of you know and as would be indicated by my name I am an admitted Spyder-Freak. They hardly ever made a knife I didn't like. I have however really become a heavy fan of their Hawkbill blades i.e. Harpy, Spyderhawk, Tasman ect. I have also recently been charmed with their recurves which are kind of a new Venture for Spyderco i.e. Spyker, Adventura & Ed Schempp's new masterpiece the KRIS.

Right to the point folks>> I want to pick all of your brains as to what methods you all might use to sharpen these most Un-Orthadox group of blades. I have a couple of methods I am working on at the current time with the use of Spyderco's 701 Profile which is a really superb design ceramic file with some fairly good results. However something in my gut tells me that I am possibly overlooking something that I may just not have tried yet.

Now I know that the protocol for sharpening the Hawkbill will slightly differ from the methodology you would implement for a top notch re-curve like the Spyker. But with that being said I bet there are some similarities and principles that would apply to both. This is one area of Sharpening that I would be willing to bet that there is not just ONE method but probably at least 5 or 6 methods that would achieve great results. Also if there are any websites or information Forums that I am un-aware of that have been posted I would sure appreciate knowing.

I know the 204 Sharpmaker can take on this type of chore but I am not convinced that it is the one "Cure All" even as much respect as I have for the unit. I have been putting my Hawkbills in a vise with rubber lined jaws and that seems to help the leverage. OK what do you all say?
 
good topic,
btw what about the free hand sharpening on stones? what are your ways of sharpening recurved blades on them?
 
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