Sharpening re-curves?

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May 11, 2009
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I suck at sharpening freehand to begin with. I have little experience, but get the best results from a diamond rod (that has an inch wide oval shape). I have been meaning to try new things.

I have been looking at the Gatco system as one that I thought I could use and get easy results.

My main question is how do you sharpen a recurve blade? Would the Gatco work?

I am talking about a recurve like you might find on a kershaw or something. Also, If I was to learn freehand sharpening on a rectangular stone -does that work for re-curves?

Thanks for the help.
 
Spyderco sharpmaker will work better for recurves because the edge will glide down the angled surface of the sharpening ceramics regardless of curve.

Gatco, Lansky, etc. fixes the angle and won't let you adjust for the differing curve -this will result in uneven removal of steel and a crappy-looking result.
 
An EdgePro using a sideways motion can do perfect recurves and very quickly at that.
 
I use things with a curved surface.

Dowels of various diameters with sandpaper or crocus clothe, loaded leather, etc. and Spyderco Profile rods, mostly.

Where did you get "a diamond rod (that has an inch wide oval shape)"?
 
The Spyderco Sharpmaker is the easiest system to use for recurves and hawkbills. Standard systems (Edge Pro, DMT, Lansky) can't handle those kinds of inward curves.
 
Standard systems (Edge Pro, DMT, Lansky) can't handle those kinds of inward curves.

Au contraire, Monsieur! :p

With a bit of practice, and paying attention to what you're doing, the Edge-Pro handles them perfectly. :thumbup:
 
Au contraire, Monsieur! :p

With a bit of practice, and paying attention to what you're doing, the Edge-Pro handles them perfectly. :thumbup:

You are still using a flat stone to sharpen a inward curve, thus either sharpening on the edges of the stone (bad) or messing up the curve (bad). The Sharpmaker's rods sharpen a curve on a curve, not messing anything up. :D
 
You are still using a flat stone to sharpen a inward curve, thus either sharpening on the edges of the stone (bad) or messing up the curve (bad). The Sharpmaker's rods sharpen a curve on a curve, not messing anything up. :D

It isn't hard to learn how much "twist" to put on the stone. And angles on the SM are set. On the EP they can be adjusted.

And if you still have trouble, call Ben Dale at EP and order 1/2 inch stones. slightly bevel the edge with a diamond stone or flattening stone and you're in business.

I don't mean to degrade the SM in any way. It's a wonderful tool. But only if you have a 15 or 20 degree bevel, and unlimited time and patience to use those fine stones.
 
It isn't hard to learn how much "twist" to put on the stone. And angles on the SM are set. On the EP they can be adjusted.

And if you still have trouble, call Ben Dale at EP and order 1/2 inch stones. slightly bevel the edge with a diamond stone or flattening stone and you're in business.

I don't mean to degrade the SM in any way. It's a wonderful tool. But only if you have a 15 or 20 degree bevel, and unlimited time and patience to use those fine stones.

I guess I'll have to try it sometime. :D
 
Thanks you guys.

I dont have that many blades with recurves, but it will be a consideration for me. I would really like to make the best edge that I can for all my knives.

"Where did you get "a diamond rod (that has an inch wide oval shape)"?"
-I bought a generic 15 dollar thing at a gun/ knife shop. It has a daimond coating. I dont know if "rod" is the proper term. It is nothing special. It has a coarse side and a medium side and does not really finish the process the way I would like.

I just want to invest in a sharpening system that can do it all for me. From changing edge angles, to simple fix ups. The Gatco deluxe system seemed to have that capability, but from what I have read it wont be ideal for recurves.

I might end up with the Gatco and invest in another tool for curved blades.

Thanks
 
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