Sharpening recommendation?

[glocker199]

I've been frustrated with sharpening for a long time. I'd really like to be able to sharpen some of my own knives but have never had much success. I started off with bench stones and then tried a diamond rod but had little success with either. I then bought a Lansky and while I can actually get a knife sharper with it, I'm still not pleased with the results. The edge is never even and it's never quite sharp enough to shave or cleanly slice paper.

99% of the time the folders I carry and a couple of my fixed blades are Benchmades so I just send them in for Lifesharp when they get dull.

What I need to be able to sharpen are fixed blades, mainly 1095 steel, ranging in size from an ESEE Izula to a Becker BK-7 to 12-18" machetes.

Any recommendation on what would be the best way to sharpen these blades?

 

[EyeDog]

One of the best systems to learn freehand sharpening is the Worksharp Guided System.

I am convinced that wet stones or diamond stones freehand is the ultimate way to sharpen a knife of any kind. From time to time I'll use my Worksharp Ken Onion grinder and for some polished edges sandpaper.

Practice, practice, practice. It'll come and you'll have a great skill.

Mike

 

[fvdk]

Although not the best system, if used correctly, you should be able to get your knives very sharp with it so it is probably your technique.

Guided systems make it easier to get good results but they still require a basic understanding of sharpening and what to look for like forming a burr and making sure that you hit the apex. If you can not get good results with the Lansky than chances are that you will not get good results with other more expensive systems either.

There are lots of video's on Youtube about the Lansky but most of them are crap. Although far from perfect, this is one of the better ones:

[video=youtube;ZlI5PaXsfOk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlI5PaXsfOk[/video]

My suggestion would be to practice a bit more with the Lansky as that will make it a lot easier to make a decision about whether is would be worthwhile to upgrade to a better system like the Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, KME etc.

 

[Twindog]

Freehand takes a lot of practice and requires a solid understanding of sharpening theory. But when you get it, it's good.

The Wicked Edge or Edge Pro are the best guided systems that I know of. The WE will give you perfect edges every time.

But you still have to raise and remove a burr the entire length of the edge. Both sides. The Lansky will do that for you, so your issue may be technique.

For machetes and such, I like to use the WorkSharp grinder -- a miniature belt grinder that is fast and easy to use. And its cheap. There is a learning curve to it, especially when working the tip. But it is fast and easy.

 

[HeavyHanded]

I've been frustrated with sharpening for a long time. I'd really like to be able to sharpen some of my own knives but have never had much success. I started off with bench stones and then tried a diamond rod but had little success with either. I then bought a Lansky and while I can actually get a knife sharper with it, I'm still not pleased with the results. The edge is never even and it's never quite sharp enough to shave or cleanly slice paper.

99% of the time the folders I carry and a couple of my fixed blades are Benchmades so I just send them in for Lifesharp when they get dull.

What I need to be able to sharpen are fixed blades, mainly 1095 steel, ranging in size from an ESEE Izula to a Becker BK-7 to 12-18" machetes.

Any recommendation on what would be the best way to sharpen these blades?

The sharpening block I make is a good fit for what you are describing. The new ones have a lot of surface area and make short work of machetes. It also provides stronger tactile feedback to help with freehand consistency.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ersion-and-short-vids?highlight=new+washboard

and there is more info, videos, copy of the user's manual through the link in my signature below. Since it is basically a benchstone, most of the content will apply to other stone types as well. Whatever you decide, freehand is ultimately the best way to go.