I've got a bunch of things I use to sharpen my knives, from a Smiths Tri-Hone that I bought 15 years ago (all wood, no plastic) to a Smiths fine diamond hone, to a bunch of sandpaper and pieces of mousepad, to a Delta belt sander that I use more for reprofiling than sharpening. I can do a pretty decent job of sharpening, getting all my knives to shave hair and pushcut paper. I guess I'm looking for what I should get to take my knives to the next level. Should I shell out the cash for an Edge Pro (the precise angles really appeal to me) or shell out the cash for some fine Japanese waterstones (the variety of grits inclusing the super ultra fine are the appeal her)? Would it be worth considering to get a Spyderco Sharpmaker or a Lansky?
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Sharpening recommendations
- Thread starter Rich_S
- Start date
I would get a sharpmaker with the ultra fine and diamond hones.
The ceramic rods are great because they are used dry. The ultra fine will get the edge to about as sharp as you would ever want, and the diamond hones are of high quality. With just the fine I have gotten an edge that will cut thin arm hair by only touching it to them. Most knives are going to be sharpened at either 30 or 40 degrees, or both with a micro bevel. And if you want to change the angle you gan slip on of the rods under it and rock it back and forth as you sharpen. It also helps with freehand. In my opinion it really is the best.
The ceramic rods are great because they are used dry. The ultra fine will get the edge to about as sharp as you would ever want, and the diamond hones are of high quality. With just the fine I have gotten an edge that will cut thin arm hair by only touching it to them. Most knives are going to be sharpened at either 30 or 40 degrees, or both with a micro bevel. And if you want to change the angle you gan slip on of the rods under it and rock it back and forth as you sharpen. It also helps with freehand. In my opinion it really is the best.
- Joined
- May 22, 2005
- Messages
- 272
I've had my Edge Pro for a while. I just pulled it out yesterday (for the first time) to sharpen a Murray Carter Kitchen Knife for a friend. Though I can say without a doubt that it felt a little different( and I was a little slow) it put the edge back on the knife quickly while removing to small edge chips. I like it! The reason I purchased the sharpener was it looked quite ready to handle larger knives and it does! I also put the edge back to the Burt Foster Camp Knife I've been using on the farm. Overall, I rate it the best sharpener that I've used to date.
I can ditto what a lot of you guys are saying. I have been an avid user of the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker for quite a while now. I agree with what the one brother said about also getting the ULTRA FINE stones and the DIAMOND stones to go with the unit. It really isn't complete without them. Trust me you will find occasions where you will indeed use all of them.
I have a sharpener that has pre-fixed angles similar to the edge pro called the SKARB. I have had some pretty decent luck with it. Which is why my curiosity is growing to learn about this EDGE PRO unit I hear a lot of you guys bragging about. The only blades I can't sharpen with the SKARB are the Hawkbills and Recurves. The one thing I do like about the SKARB is that you can use your own stones. I have heard that the EDGE PRO is set up to only use their proprietary stones.
I love to experiment with all kinds of sharpening hardware. I am seriously thinking about getting an EDGE PRO unit. My question to you all is this: Wouldn't it just be wise to go ahead and get their very best unit? Also for you guys who already have an EDGE PRO is there any other accessories that I should also get with it? Who would be the best dealer/vendor to obtain one from or can you just get them directly from the manufacturer?
I have a sharpener that has pre-fixed angles similar to the edge pro called the SKARB. I have had some pretty decent luck with it. Which is why my curiosity is growing to learn about this EDGE PRO unit I hear a lot of you guys bragging about. The only blades I can't sharpen with the SKARB are the Hawkbills and Recurves. The one thing I do like about the SKARB is that you can use your own stones. I have heard that the EDGE PRO is set up to only use their proprietary stones.
I love to experiment with all kinds of sharpening hardware. I am seriously thinking about getting an EDGE PRO unit. My question to you all is this: Wouldn't it just be wise to go ahead and get their very best unit? Also for you guys who already have an EDGE PRO is there any other accessories that I should also get with it? Who would be the best dealer/vendor to obtain one from or can you just get them directly from the manufacturer?
Depends. If you just sharpen knives, NO scissors, planer blades, chisels then the Apex may well be all you need. The Apex is available from a LOT of dealers, jobbers, and via ebay etc. The Pro is only available from EdgePro. It's serial numbered signed and your name goes on it. Personally even if I was getting the Apex I'd buy direct from EdgePro even if I was paying a bit more. The customer service is fantastic and the guarantee is great. If you want the scissors, planer blades and chisels sharp you have to get the Professional version and the additional attachment at 95$ or buy the complete kit # 3. 485$ USD
No you aren't stuck with just stones from EdgePro. However if you want stones that have been tried, tested, and are totally consistent with the EdgePro then get them from EdgePro. 1x6 stones are available from a lot of tool and die makers suppliers and most large abrasives dealers.
If you sharpen massive recurves or hawkbills get the 1/2 wide stone, it's only available in the 320grit however. Get extra 120 grit stones they wear fast I get just the stones 4 at a time and mount them on the blank myself. Get a spare 220MF and 320EF as well. The 600 ultra fine you won't wear out for about 10K knives or more. If you drop a stone in the sink or on the floor you can break it. I know I've done both.
Get the silicone carbide for lapping your stones. (You'll have to get your own piece of glass to use it on, I used a square piece from a coffee table for a long time. Now using a 14x14 piece cut from glass from a light table) Get the full range of polishing tapes 12µ, 3µ, 1µ, and 0.5µ get polishing blanks for them all saves having to peel off tapes and apply the next size.
A fair number of users are going to diamond from EZE-Lap, order the 42 series without the pedestal in coarse, medium and fine and attach them to your own stone blanks. (Note the stone blanks and the tape polishing blanks are different) I have the EZE-Lap Diamonds but I'm not thrilled with them but it may be that I haven't used them enough to break them in. I can see the point of not having to use water etc but personally I haven't had as good an experience as I have with the EdgePro stones. Also the diamonds do require a lighter touch in my opinion. But then maybe that's why I haven't had much luck with them.
1. I'd order from EdgePro. You can't beat the service or support.
2. Get extra coarse stones they do wear fast get 3 spares at least if you do a lot of reprofilling. Get a spare 220MF and a 320EF stone with your order.
3. Get all the polishing tapes and blanks for them.
4. Get the silicone carbide for flattening your stones.
5. Get a piece of glass for # 4. Flatten your stones regularly they will last longer and work better.
6. Go to your local hardware store and buy a 2" wide roll of painters tape. this will be used to protect the blade table, provide stability and to tape the edges of knives to prevent scratching, especially import with the 120grit stone.
7. Practice on larger knives with decent steel first, with good flat surfaces till you get used to holding the knife steady.
Enjoy the sharpest knives on your block.
No you aren't stuck with just stones from EdgePro. However if you want stones that have been tried, tested, and are totally consistent with the EdgePro then get them from EdgePro. 1x6 stones are available from a lot of tool and die makers suppliers and most large abrasives dealers.
If you sharpen massive recurves or hawkbills get the 1/2 wide stone, it's only available in the 320grit however. Get extra 120 grit stones they wear fast I get just the stones 4 at a time and mount them on the blank myself. Get a spare 220MF and 320EF as well. The 600 ultra fine you won't wear out for about 10K knives or more. If you drop a stone in the sink or on the floor you can break it. I know I've done both.
Get the silicone carbide for lapping your stones. (You'll have to get your own piece of glass to use it on, I used a square piece from a coffee table for a long time. Now using a 14x14 piece cut from glass from a light table) Get the full range of polishing tapes 12µ, 3µ, 1µ, and 0.5µ get polishing blanks for them all saves having to peel off tapes and apply the next size.
A fair number of users are going to diamond from EZE-Lap, order the 42 series without the pedestal in coarse, medium and fine and attach them to your own stone blanks. (Note the stone blanks and the tape polishing blanks are different) I have the EZE-Lap Diamonds but I'm not thrilled with them but it may be that I haven't used them enough to break them in. I can see the point of not having to use water etc but personally I haven't had as good an experience as I have with the EdgePro stones. Also the diamonds do require a lighter touch in my opinion. But then maybe that's why I haven't had much luck with them.
1. I'd order from EdgePro. You can't beat the service or support.
2. Get extra coarse stones they do wear fast get 3 spares at least if you do a lot of reprofilling. Get a spare 220MF and a 320EF stone with your order.
3. Get all the polishing tapes and blanks for them.
4. Get the silicone carbide for flattening your stones.
5. Get a piece of glass for # 4. Flatten your stones regularly they will last longer and work better.
6. Go to your local hardware store and buy a 2" wide roll of painters tape. this will be used to protect the blade table, provide stability and to tape the edges of knives to prevent scratching, especially import with the 120grit stone.
7. Practice on larger knives with decent steel first, with good flat surfaces till you get used to holding the knife steady.
Enjoy the sharpest knives on your block.