sharpening recurve w/ sandpaper

Turbo Tension

Turbo Tension

Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
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I've given up on trying to convex my new 710 and now I'm just going for a reprofile. I started with 1in strips of 220 on the edge of my bench and I'm getting nowhere quick. I am somewho leaving the center of the blade barely touched. I've tried folding the paper over the edge, taping it, and running woth that and I'm still having slow, if nonexistent results.

Any tips? Is BMs D2 just THAT hard?

Thanks!
 
Well, this might help- the 1/2" Edge Pro stones are recommended for recurve blades. And I've definitely seen other posters having trouble with the stock 1" wide stones when it comes to recurves.
 
Any D2 is that hard and sandpaper is one of the slower methods considering the steel.

Try putting the sandpaper on a strop or hard leather, its works well. Not too much give in the backing but enough to get that untouched section.

Your hand motion needs to match that curve of the blade too, you must curve at the recurve and lift the handle to transfer to the belly and tip. Too tell if you are hitting each section equally watch your bevel height or scratch height, it should be equal over the length of the edge.
 
Thanks! I'm thinking I'll try 1/2" strips of 220 on leather to start out with and see where that gets me.
 
It would be better to use full sheets, because of the backing thin strips are not needed.
 
Using a Sharpie to mark your edge makes it easier to see what you're hitting and not.--KV
 
knifenut1013 said:
Try putting the sandpaper on a strop or hard leather, its works well. Not too much give in the backing but enough to get that untouched section.
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbup:

Sandpaper on leather works surprisingly well. Don't need narrow strips. I've just been cutting mine to match the width of my strop block (2-1/2"), so I'm basically just 'stropping' the blade as I always do, but at a coarser grit. Works great this way.
 
My setup is HUD approved, knife sharpening nut not, so I said F the sandpaper and went to my DMTs once I realized the diamond compound extends all the way to the edge. I had to keep the fine and extra fine clean, but it worked. You can see the scratches I had with the sandpaper...

IMG_3762.jpg
 
Knifenut/ Obsessed

I used the leather method on my BM Lum Tanto. One thing I added was that, after using a grit, I'd use the same grit but dab some blobs of Mother's Mag polish on and strop again going up to 600 grit then stropping.

Holy crap. I can launch arm hair a good 6" off my forearm now. I'm going to do this method with my Busse!
 
Turbo Tension said:
Knifenut/ Obsessed

I used the leather method on my BM Lum Tanto. One thing I added was that, after using a grit, I'd use the same grit but dab some blobs of Mother's Mag polish on and strop again going up to 600 grit then stropping.

Holy crap. I can launch arm hair a good 6" off my forearm now. I'm going to do this method with my Busse!
Click to expand...

:thumbup:

Cool!!

I hadn't heard of using the polish on the sandpaper (if I understand you correctly?). That's an interesting twist on a technique I'm already really growing to like. Might have to give that a try.
 
you're correct, I just dabbed some on a fresh strip of sand paper at whatever grit I was at then stropped away. It doubled the time it took, but I think the results were worth it.
 
i tried it before and after hours of trial and error, I never got a mirror edge or that sharp of an edge. got a sharper edge with a lansky system which is no where near as sharp as my current fav system, paper wheel.
 
I like using a Norton round India stone. MSC industrial supply has a nice selection.For smaller blades, I like the 4"x1" P/N FF244.
 
I gave up with the sandpaper and ended up with a Sharpmaker. It took some time but I put a scary sharp 30 degree edge on the 710.
 
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