Sharpening Recurved Blades

Joined
Jul 17, 1999
Messages
795
Lately, I have read several posts which mentioned that they hate to try to sharpen recorved blades. I have several, as small as a Cuda EDC and as large as a SIFU in D2 steel. They are a breeze to keep hair-poppin' with the Sharpmaker 204, and in between touchups on Crock Sticks(ceramic crossed rods). I was dubious too, but the SM 204 is just about perfect for these great knives.It takes no more effort than a straight blade,even on the tough D2 tool steel, and the results are fabulous. Don't be hesitant to try one of these great knives. Just get a Spyderco SM 204 and relax.You need one anyhow!:D
 
Try reprofiling 420V with that Sharpmaker:p
I did see Sal say something, somewhere(Spyderco forum?) about the fact that they had something going with diamond rods for the Sharpmaker. I think he said they'll be out in the fall?? Can't wait!
 
Don't try this at home with a Combat Talon II. You'll cry when the flats get scuffed fromt he angle.

:D
 
Thumbs up on the 204. I've had mine for a couple of months now and it's the best knife accessory I ever invested in. :)
 
Another suggestion: Use only the corners of the stones when sharpening recurved edges, not the flats. Check out the video where Sal shows the proper technique for "alternate blade styles"
 
Surprisingly, neither of my recurved blades has received a stray scratch, and I have used both the flats and corners of the rods. What happens with the Talon? Is it due to the thickness or curvature or?
 
If you hold the flat surface of one of the stones against the most recurved part of your blade, you'll see that it won't make even contact with the blade. That's why they recommend using just the corners of the stones. I believe I've heard others hereabouts say the same thing.
 
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