Sharpening s110v questions

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

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Jul 20, 2012
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In a few days or so I'll be getting in mail a manix 2 in s110v. This will be to date, the most wear resistant steel that I've owned and the concern of sharpening comes to mind. I currently have a 150 grit nubatama bamboo stone that I love for reprofiling any of my knives. It's done a fantastic job, but will it be able to reprofile 110v??

My other question is that following the 150 grit nubatama stone, can I follow it with a fine DMT diasharp? Or is the jump too big and a coarse DMT should be added inbetween?

I intend to put a 400-600 grit working edge on this manix. I have shapton glass stones, but my 500 stone is wearing thin and the 1k & 4k is too big of a jump from the 150 grit as well as of a finer finish then I intend for. I also have a washboard system from HeavyHanded here with sic-carbide sandpaper, but from what I've read sandpaper proves to be not very effective on these high vanadium high wear steels. That aside, any comments, tips, and answers to the above questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
BN
 
I haven't tried sharpening my S110V mule teams yet, only touched one up with some cheap green compound which took awhile longer than usual to do to get any type of results. I've heard of people using sandpaper and silicon carbide stones on steel all the way up to S90V but haven't heard of them using it on S110V yet and I don't intend on testing it out on mine since I am currently thinking about selling it. Hopefully someone else will be able to chime in with better answers.
 
The 150 might cut it but you would be better off with the shaptons. That said I would go with the diamond plate as it will cut the steel with ease and provide you with the best edge possible. The larger factor is going to be hardness, s110v has a fairly large range it can be heat treated at and this can change sharpening a lot.

I would just use the DMT hones, coarse and fine will work well. If you have coarser plates use those to speed things up if needed. If the bevel angle is good then a Coarse DMT is more than enough to erase the factory grind.
 
I think a lot of folks get scared/intimidated by newer steels based on what they read. I have several knives above 64 HRC, one in CPM 10V. They sharpen up faster and easier than most of my cheap knives, due to having a thin grind and the relative lack of burr formation.

Diamonds cut everything fast. Everything.
 
sodak said:
I think a lot of folks get scared/intimidated by newer steels based on what they read. I have several knives above 64 HRC, one in CPM 10V. They sharpen up faster and easier than most of my cheap knives, due to having a thin grind and the relative lack of burr formation.

Diamonds cut everything fast. Everything.
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The hardest(as in difficulty) steel I've sharpened was m390. The issue is not that I'm intimidated, but I do not have any diamond equipment as my nubatama, washboard, and glass stones were able to tackle any steel I've had.

I am fairly confident that my nubatama 150 grit will be suitable for rough reprofiling, but I do intend to grab a 6" diasharp coarse/fine combo for maintaining the edge. Eventually should I really need too, I can grab a extra-coarse down the road. But so far it seems that diamond is just the only way to go for these steels.
 
If you don't have diamond hones then just use your shaptons to 1k.
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
The hardest(as in difficulty) steel I've sharpened was m390. The issue is not that I'm intimidated, but I do not have any diamond equipment as my nubatama, washboard, and glass stones were able to tackle any steel I've had.

I am fairly confident that my nubatama 150 grit will be suitable for rough reprofiling, but I do intend to grab a 6" diasharp coarse/fine combo for maintaining the edge. Eventually should I really need too, I can grab a extra-coarse down the road. But so far it seems that diamond is just the only way to go for these steels.
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You could always pick up a couple sheets of 3M diamond lapping film just for the high VC steel. In all reality the SiC wet/dry should have few issues till you start getting down to the finer edge, though as they say, on material with that much Vanadium, diamonds are recommended. The 6" films are only about $6 each and work very well on a WB with soapy water. A 30u and 9u might be all you'd need.
 
HeavyHanded said:
You could always pick up a couple sheets of 3M diamond lapping film just for the high VC steel. In all reality the SiC wet/dry should have few issues till you start getting down to the finer edge, though as they say, on material with that much Vanadium, diamonds are recommended. The 6" films are only about $6 each and work very well on a WB with soapy water. A 30u and 9u might be all you'd need.
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That sounds like a great idea! Do you know where I can pick up these lapping films?
 
The 3M diamond lapping films can be hard to find in small amounts. I have found the best price for the non-adhesive type at Digikey. The PSA backed ones in coarser grits are available at Precision Surfaces International.

Cheers,

Rick
 
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