Sharpening S30V CPM with Lansky Deluxe

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NeedItCheaper

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Jun 17, 2012
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I have spent so much time on my Paramilitary 2 (angle 20). I have spent literally 1/10 of the time on my Delica 4 VG10 and attained more than a razors edge. I know it's not the steel, because when I first got the PM2 it was more than razor sharp, but now I just can't get it anywhere near that.


Anyone else have the same experience? Do you have techniques for overcoming it?
 
Have you tried marking the blade bevel with a sharpie and looking to see if you are indeed working on the existing bevel. If it needs a lot of re-profiling, I would get a course Lansky diamond hone to get it started and apexed, and then start on the other stones, and progressing through them for a finished blade.

Omar
 
This topic (S30V vs Lansky's standard hones) seems to come up a lot. I always recommend the same fix.

The standard hones in Lansky's kits (including the Deluxe kit) have a very tough time with S30V, especially if trying to re-bevel. I ruined two of mine on a ZT-0350 in S30V. I think Lansky also has an issue with those hones loading up & clogging, which makes them even slower. I'd STRONGLY recommend getting at least one diamond hone in Coarse/XC to help with the heavy grinding/re-bevelling, and then the standard hones should work well enough to refine & finish it off.


David
 
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A couple diamond stones fixed this for me too. Then moved onto the extra course, course and so on. I did a crk umnumzaan in s35v, at zt551 in elmax and will attempt a barrage in m390 soon. Ill be doing a esee in 1095 tonight also.
 
I concur not that it's necessary as these guys know their stuff. My lansky stones loaded up and glazed so bad I pretty much gave up on them. I did get a good edge (not great, but shaving nearly polished) on my s30v native but it took a very long time.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. I will be getting the Lansky Extra Course Diamond stone for next week, and after that I will use the 5 standard stones to smooth it out. I will report back.


I am confused as to what you guys are talking about when you say your stones got ruined. Every time my stones look dirty and are a little more smooth/clogged, I just wash them in soap and water. Does nobody bother to maintain theirs? Or am I missing something?
 
I don't think you're missing anything. I wash my Lansky hones when they get clogged up as well. I use the honing oil, but I'll try soap & water. Thanks.

By the way, I'm having the same issue. I recently bought a Spyderco Sage 1 and Southard. I need to get some diamond hones as well for my Lansky.

If I were only to get one......course or extra course?
 
NeedItCheaper said:
Thanks for the responses guys. I will be getting the Lansky Extra Course Diamond stone for next week, and after that I will use the 5 standard stones to smooth it out. I will report back.


I am confused as to what you guys are talking about when you say your stones got ruined. Every time my stones look dirty and are a little more smooth/clogged, I just wash them in soap and water. Does nobody bother to maintain theirs? Or am I missing something?
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The issues I had with mine might've been more than just clogging. The stones seemed to get glazed over (abrasive itself actually lost it's aggressiveness). No amount of cleaning helped much, and even if some difference was made, they'd very quickly lose aggressiveness again, when going back to work. The two stones that were 'ruined', were made un-flat (dished, or bowed inwardly) on the S30V re-bevelling job. I think they were my XC/Coarse stones (maybe the medium as well). At any rate, by the time this happened, I'd become pretty much fed up with all the issues with them. So, it didn't take any arm-twisting to jump into the diamond kit after that. Difference in aggressiveness is night & day.

( Edit: I'll add that the 'Deluxe' kit I had was an older one, probably produced back in the early-mid '90s or so. I don't know if the stones of that vintage are any different/better/worse than current product from Lansky. BUT, I seem to see similar issues being described by others here, with newer kits.)

Diamond hones can also clog occasionally, especially on some more ductile low-alloy stainless steels. But they're much easier to clean up again, to get them working. Using them with water, or water + dish detergent, will slow down the rate at which they (might) clog, so that helps too.


David
 
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scb77 said:
I don't think you're missing anything. I wash my Lansky hones when they get clogged up as well. I use the honing oil, but I'll try soap & water. Thanks.

By the way, I'm having the same issue. I recently bought a Spyderco Sage 1 and Southard. I need to get some diamond hones as well for my Lansky.

If I were only to get one......course or extra course?
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If you're grinding some very heavy/thick/large blades, the XC is a bonus. On most other blades (small to large folder-sized), I've almost never needed more than the Coarse diamond. I managed well enough with a medium diamond for a long while, until I bought my diamond kit. I did pretty much work the medium to death, however. ;)


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
( Edit: I'll add that the 'Deluxe' kit I had was an older one, probably produced back in the early-mid '90s or so. I don't know if the stones of that vintage are any different/better/worse than current product from Lansky. BUT, I seem to see similar issues being described by others here, with newer kits.)
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Not sure if better, but I do know at least the 280 is different color stone and the old 600 seems to be brick. The brick currently has pitting in the middle, looks as if they are bubbles, and might have been uncovered in normal wear.

My original set was purchased in 2001. Where as my new set was purchased in 2012.
 
NeedItCheaper said:
Not sure if better, but I do know at least the 280 is different color stone and the old 600 seems to be brick. The brick currently has pitting in the middle, looks as if they are bubbles, and might have been uncovered in normal wear.

My original set was purchased in 2001. Where as my new set was purchased in 2012.
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The 'brick' color description of the 600 (Fine) possibly matches the color of mine, which looks sort of reddish/purple. That's a ceramic (what I have), along with the white 1000 (UltraFine) hone. I haven't had any wear issues with those (the ceramics), but just with the coarser corundum/aluminum oxide stones (XC thru Medium), all of them being grey/blackish in color.


David
 
Thanks for the help. I'll only be working on pocket knives with sub 4 inch blades. I'll get the course diamond.
 
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