-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Sharpening scandi grind fiddleback
- Thread starter PDE
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2008
- Messages
- 1,574
You can either run the entire bevel on flat stones and maintain a true zero edge ....
... or strop the edge and give it a slight convex, which will keep it plenty sharp and maintain good cutting but will make it slightly tougher at the edge.
Does it already have a micro bevel ?
... or strop the edge and give it a slight convex, which will keep it plenty sharp and maintain good cutting but will make it slightly tougher at the edge.
Does it already have a micro bevel ?
PDE, what kind of steel is the blade?
I sharpen my Scandis on a 1200 grit waterstone, with the primary grind flat on the stone. I'll stroke several times (about 10 or so) on one side, then flip and do the other. Then I'll grind about 5 times before flipping, then 3 or so, then I'll start turning the blade after every stroke, easing off on pressure as I go. When the edge has attained a "crispness" - a sharpness - I go to the Spiderco Sharpmaker's white stones.
Lay the primary grind flat on the stones at the 30 degree setting. Then lean out just a tad to vertical and take 5 or 6 whisper light passes per side. What's happening here is I'll be putting the slightest of micro-bevels on the edge. Then I strop carefully with green chromium oxide until the edge is finished.
To me, the scandi grind is the easiest to get truly razor sharp.
I sharpen my Scandis on a 1200 grit waterstone, with the primary grind flat on the stone. I'll stroke several times (about 10 or so) on one side, then flip and do the other. Then I'll grind about 5 times before flipping, then 3 or so, then I'll start turning the blade after every stroke, easing off on pressure as I go. When the edge has attained a "crispness" - a sharpness - I go to the Spiderco Sharpmaker's white stones.
Lay the primary grind flat on the stones at the 30 degree setting. Then lean out just a tad to vertical and take 5 or 6 whisper light passes per side. What's happening here is I'll be putting the slightest of micro-bevels on the edge. Then I strop carefully with green chromium oxide until the edge is finished.
To me, the scandi grind is the easiest to get truly razor sharp.
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2008
- Messages
- 1,574
If it has a micro bevel I'd see if you can maintain it with a strop.
That way you wont be removing much material and the primary bevel will last longer.
I'd go to the stones only if you've really worn down the edge and have to.
Andy makes a good blade. :thumbup:
That way you wont be removing much material and the primary bevel will last longer.
I'd go to the stones only if you've really worn down the edge and have to.
Andy makes a good blade. :thumbup:
ok sounds good and i really love the knife. It is a beauty and even though scandis are not my ideal bushcrafter, it has moved up to the top of my knife list and I find myself carrying it everyday. I will have to get some pics up pretty soon, as well as a review.