Sharpening Scandi Grind

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pastormarty

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Mar 22, 2010
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I got 3 Moras for Christmas and love them, but have never had a Scandi grind before. Couple of questions:
1 - Does it not take a long time to sharpen when you are removing such a wide area of steel?
2 - Will it not work just as well to sharpen it at 30 or 40 deg on my Sharpmaker?
 
Some people don't have trouble at all sharpening the Scandi grind on a knife. It's one of the simplest because there is no secondary bevel.
In a Scandi grind, the bevels are the cutting edges as well. In theory, to sharpen it, you lay the bevel flat on a stone and you sharpen the entire bevel on both sides. What you can do is add a secondary bevel at any angle you choose. It will take quite a while.

Have a look through this forum, it is where sharpening methods and tools are posted:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment
 
I have a few of them. Lots of people put a microbevel on them with a very fine stone or a strop. If you want a stronger edge, a microbevel is fine.
I just got an Enzo Birk in the mail with a scandi grind, and it looked like it came with a microbevel.
 
if you put a chip in the edge, you have to take both sides down in order to get rid of the chip which can take some time so yes they can take some time to sharpen. you can put a secondary bevel on or you can even go with a convex edge which would probably work much better.
 
put convex on it, it works better than pure scandi and doesnt chip!!!!!!!!I have couple moras that chipped before on pure scandi, when i convexed it no chips at all!
 
I've only got one true scandi, and my logic is to just strop it as long as I can. When I have to use some actual grit, I'll just use sandpaper and my strop. If I gradually convex the very edge, that's okay. At any time I choose to, I can always send it back to the maker, Andy Roy, and have him put the scandi back to true. Or, I can use stones, and gather up my patience, and try it myself.
 
Moras are easy (technique wise) to hand sharpen. I hone mine by setting the bevel flat on some wet/dry sand paper. I place a micro bevel by raising the back of the blade 1 blade thickness and hone at that angle for several strokes.
 
pastormarty said:
I got 3 Moras for Christmas and love them, but have never had a Scandi grind before. Couple of questions:
1 - Does it not take a long time to sharpen when you are removing such a wide area of steel?
2 - Will it not work just as well to sharpen it at 30 or 40 deg on my Sharpmaker?
Click to expand...

It doesn't take that long to sharpen at the original angle, but it might be too fine for some tasks. If it isn't, leave it at the original angle. While they work OK with a primary bevel cut in at a wider angle, or convexed, they function best at a fairly acute single bevel - this also the easiest to maintain over time. Using a wider primary bevel defeats the strong point of the design and leaves you with a secondary bevel that is far more obtuse than what you'll find on most knives - works OK, but not as well as it can.
 
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