Sharpening Sebenza on Sharpmaker

Joined
Nov 1, 2002
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137
I believe the Sebenza is sharpened at a 20 degree angle. (which seems quite acute to me) How many of you use the 20 degree angle on the Sharpmaker rather than the wider 40? Anyone sharpen on oil stones or Japanese water stones?
 
The sebenza is approximately 20 degrees per side, or 40 degrees inclusive. The more acute setting on a Sharpmaker is actually 30 degrees inclusive.

There can be slight differences, because every Chris Reeve knife is carefully sharpened by hand.
 
Most all I have came around 17 or 18 per side, and CRK told me that is what most all are when they leave. Thats was a couple of years ago when I was told that, and I haven't bought one in a couple of years, so that may have changed.

I sharpen mine at 40 inclusive(20 per side). Tough edge that holds an edge well, and cuts good enough for me.
We're all different though, and many go down to 30(15 per side) with no problem.

I use oil stones or a Sharpmaker.
 
I sharpen all my knives (obviously not the kitchen knives) with the sharpmaher at 40 (=2x20). In my opinion it's the perfect hard use angle / easy sharpening combination.
 
I sharpen my Sebenza at the 40 angle setting (2x20). It takes an incredible edge, especially with the ultra-fine rods, that easily shaves hair and push cuts telephone book paper.
 
The sharpmaker comes with 40 degree and 30 degree angles. I use the 40 degree setting exclusively.
 
40 degrees inclusive when I had one :) Keep em sharp my friends!
 
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I use the side that is labeled "40 degree edge". Works quite well and I have no complaints. I don't use my Sebbies for shaving my face, so it works just fine for me.
 
I use my Sharp Maker (40 degree) to keep my Sebenza sharp. It works great if you do not let the edge get too bad. I believe I heard somewhere that CRK has even suggested the Sharp Maker for sharpening. I touch up with the ultra fine stones frequently and then sometimes refine the edge a little more by stropping.
 
I keep mine, (a small Plain Jane 21) at 40° I have a Sharpmaker but I free hand sharpen on a 3X8 inch diamond hone most times.

I have EdgePro that I reprofile with but that rarely gets pulled out, 90% of my sharpening is done free hand on bench hones/stones.
 
I keep mine, (a small Plain Jane 21) at 40° I have a Sharpmaker but I free hand sharpen on a 3X8 inch diamond hone most times.

I have EdgePro that I reprofile with but that rarely gets pulled out, 90% of my sharpening is done free hand on bench hones/stones.

Wow, really? You have a sharpmaker and an edge pro, but you choose to freehand? I would love to have that skill! How did you learn to do it? It seems so difficult.
 
Wow, really? You have a sharpmaker and an edge pro, but you choose to freehand? I would love to have that skill! How did you learn to do it? It seems so difficult.

Repetition, I've got thousands of hours practice, I sharpen a couple hours a night on average, I sharpen everyone's knives for them, I carry a set of small diamond hones in my bag and I have a few homemade strops I use.

As for how I got here, I've been free hand sharpening since the 70s, granted I sucked at first but through trial and error I learned. The most important thing is muscle memory and that comes with practice. Practice, practice, practice and when you think you've practiced enough, practice more.

I maintain my angle by using my thumb as a guide, I lay the spine of the blade against my thumb and run my thumbnail on the stone as the guide, this gives me a consistent angle and after I get my burr, I strop,
on leather, cardboard, thick paper all work reasonably well.

One of the biggest mistakes most people make is they tend to over sharpen their blades to much and like with golf, baseball and tennis you need to follow through on the strokes. The tendency to lift the spine of the blade off the stone as you finish your stroke is natural, this will round the bevel and depending on how bad you are can actually make your knife duller because your rolling over the acute angle you're trying to make. The best way to combat this is to stroke past the stone and not lift the blade off the stone till you're past the edge of the stone.

There are so many tutorials, and threads on sharpening it can be overwhelming, but they all have one thing in common, practice, even the EdgePro has a learning curve. Find a full knife buy a set of oil stones, coarse, medium and fine, you can usually find these for about $15-$20 a set, start with the coarse stone and set your bevel and progress to the medium stone and start making a burr. This will progress into the finer stone with the same goal of achieving a wire edge/burr.

This is then either polished off with the strop or by lifting up on the spine a little too remove the burr by creating a micro bevel that removes the burr.

Another thing to consider is what kind of cutting you want to do a good toothy working edge at 25° will last forever when cutting cardboard and similar materials. If you want to shave letters of news paper you need an acute polished edge but they typically are not good for much more showing off your sharpening skills or operating on the pets, (just kidding) I do keep a record edge on some of my multi blade for removing splinters and fine cutting.

Look around, even here IIRC there is a sharpening sticky in the maintenance sub forum.

Hope this helped, feel free to pm me if you have any other questions, if I don't have an answer, I'll find someone who does.
 
I'll sometimes use an Edgepro to put the initial bevel on, then finish by hand on waterstones and Spyderco ceramics. Sometimes I just freehand it the entire way though.

Here's a shot of my Umnumzaan that was taken to a 20 degree inclusive bevel.

2013-02-03_18-05-05_74_zps090dbe35.jpg
 
Wow, really? You have a sharpmaker and an edge pro, but you choose to freehand? I would love to have that skill! How did you learn to do it? It seems so difficult.

Google "Joe Talmadge sharpening tutorial". That's how I learned to sharpen free hand. I pretty much only use white ceramic and a strop. Whittle hair with most my knives.
 
Nice bevel cynic! I believe my small seb has a bevel at about that degree, I like ridiculous edges such as yourself.
 
Man, I love this forum. The other day, I gave my mod. 21 a touch up on the Japanese water stones, (from 800 grit, to 1200, then to 6000) I then put it on the Sharpmaker. It's like a new knife (I might also add that I took it apart, cleaned it, oiled it, etc. after doing the Japanese water stones because they're so messy and the 'slurry' can get into small places where you don't want it) I recently bought a Spyderco "Resilience" because I was worried about daily carrying my CR; have to say the Resilience is a decent knife for under $50 including shipping and takes a very nice edge, but it's not a CR!', although it does fit my big hands very nicely, just as the CR does. I'm thinking about getting the "ultra-fine" stones for my Sharpmaker.......any thoughts from those who have them? Thanks!
 
A few years ago the highest grit I had was the Spyderco ultrafine stones. Here's the result of meticulous and time consuming polishing with Spyderco ceramics:

Sage2.jpg


I will say that waterstones - with a good tight progression - will make it easier, faster, and less annoying to do.
 
I would like to try waterstones are even the cheap ones better then the ultra fine here's some X15-TN steel
ybuva4a4.jpg
 
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