Sharpening SGPS....??

L

Lavan

Joined
Nov 8, 2000
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As two of you may not have heard, I got a Fallkniven U2 and am ecstatic with the lil thing.

Now, when ...sharpening...time comes, which angle should I use? 30 or 40?

It doesn't NEED it yet. Just getting info beforehand.
 
Lavan said:
As two of you may not have heard, I got a Fallkniven U2 and am ecstatic with the lil thing.

Now, when ...sharpening...time comes, which angle should I use? 30 or 40?

It doesn't NEED it yet. Just getting info beforehand.
Click to expand...

30. I usually go with 30* if it is a premium steel. It will give you better performance and you won't have to worry about such a thin edge with modern cutlery steels.

I know you said it doesn't need it, yet, but keep in mind that letting your knife get dull before you sharpen it will make you have a headache. If you keep touching it up as you go along you will rarely have to fully resharpen it.
-Kevin
 
Well, if it were my knife, I wouldn't use either one of those angles. I'd take 'er down to 15* (included) or less. Then if I noticed microscopic nicks or chips from normal use, I might add a secondary micro bevel to like 20-25 degrees included. I take it you're using a jig or guide of some kind?

I use 30-40 (well, the very edge may get to 50 degrees included, but this is only a tiny micro edge on the main convex edge) degree angles on my great big Bowie knife, and that's about all the cutting performance I'm willing to sacrifice for edge strength. The folder you mentioned is no chopper. So unless you're gonna be doing some really rough work with it, I'd go with a lower angle.
 
the possum said:
Well, if it were my knife, I wouldn't use either one of those angles. I'd take 'er down to 15* (included) or less. Then if I noticed microscopic nicks or chips from normal use, I might add a secondary micro bevel to like 20-25 degrees included. I take it you're using a jig or guide of some kind?

I use 30-40 (well, the very edge may get to 50 degrees included, but this is only a tiny micro edge on the main convex edge) degree angles on my great big Bowie knife, and that's about all the cutting performance I'm willing to sacrifice for edge strength. The folder you mentioned is no chopper. So unless you're gonna be doing some really rough work with it, I'd go with a lower angle.
Click to expand...

30* on a Spyderco Sharpmaker means 15* per side. Are you we aren't talking about the same angle?
-Kevin
 
I am referring to using the Sharpmaker.

Reason for not touching up so far is that I haven't used it much.

But I will.

:)
 
Nope. I do mean half the angle of the sharpmaker. When I freehand sharpen on stones, I only raise the spine of the blade far enough off the stone to prevent scratching the sides. If this proves too thin for my purposes, I may convex it so the very edge is at a steeper angle, but I always start out thin. Even if you do decide the edge needs to be steeper later, by establishing a thin edge first, you will make subsequent sharpening easier, and the edge geometry will be far more "aerodynamic" for less drag.
 
I used some 800 grit wet and dry, followed by 1200, and then some polishing compound on a hard leather strop to put a nice convex edge on my U2. It's great and matches the convex grind of the rest of the blade.
It has also made me consider convex grinds for my other knives when sharpening time comes around.
Greg
 
Like Possum, I sharpen freehand, starting with a very narrow included-angle edge. If that edge proves too fragile for that blade (chipping or rolling), I modify the final bevel to a larger included-angle edge.

For convexing, I prefer a softer rough-out-surface leather hone surface loaded with 800-grit powder to form the convex edge, followed by light finishing with a hard-surface strop loaded with CrO green powder.

I prefer to let the blade performance dictate the optimum edge, rather than depend on the limits of a sharpening machine.
 
I sharpen my U2 as possum suggests and that angle works god for my edc purposes that goes from preparing food and wittle to taking care of fish and birds. I have used it for moose last year but in the original a bit thicker faktory edge. The handle is a bit small for that work though, so is the blade. It was possible and done on two mooses but a bit on the slow side, but what dont you do to get a use for your beloved items. This year I will be back to fixed blades.
 
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