Sharpening / Slightly Reprofiling RMD

Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
52
Hi guys,

I just got my first RMD today and it feels amazing. It's truly the standout piece of hardware in my collection. However, the edge angle is a bit steeper than I'd prefer, and although it's pretty sharp I'd still like to kick it up a notch.

Now I feel stupid saying this, but I had some trouble sharpening it due to the edge angle and the coating near the edge. The coating would tend to grind onto my Sharpmaker stone and I didn't end up getting too far. Is there a trick to sharpening such a thin available edge? And if I were to use a Sharpmaker to perhaps lower the angle a bit, what's the best way of dealing with the blade coating?

The alternative that I'll most likely try is taking my RMD to my belt sander, unless you guys strongly oppose altering the factory angle. And again I don't know what to do about that blade coating. Will it just grind off nicely or will it stick to my paper? Do you need some sort of chemical if you want to strip it a little?

Thanks a bunch.
 
Well, IMO the use of a SM on such a beefy blade would equal much wasted time. Ceramics are slow to begin with and add into that, that the grits used are in the finishing range and you now have even slower progression. Resetting a bevel on that with a SM is not something I would want to try even with the available diamond rods. The SM might be ok for touch-up but some waterstones or sandpaper on a hard backing is more along the lines of what you need. SR-101 is also a fairly wear resistant steel so no matter what its going to take some time to grind.

P.S. the coating will wear back with the sharpening, its not really a issue unless you convex.
 
Hey, thanks for the reply. Why do you say it's an issue if you convex? Wouldn't that mean belt sander = issue?
 
The issue is that when convex sharpening the grinding extends up the side of the blade and past the shoulder of a typical V bevel. With the blade being coated this grinding usually affects the 1/4in-1/2in section of coating above the edge bevel, it becomes worn down and polished.
 
It's probably not as bad as you think, the coating is pretty tough. You can see some of the wear in this pic.
Picture1425.jpg
 
There's no need to strip part of the blade if you go the belt grinder route, the sandpaper will remove the coating easily. Just make sure you grind evenly and it will look good. Good choice on the RMD! :thumbup:
 
Yes, my regulator.

How did you get that edge? That is amazing. Edgepro?

As for the OP, I would send it to Norcalblacktail or Richard J and get them to re profile your edge. Its alot of work if you want to do it by hand. I did mine on the paper wheel setup and it cuts soooo much better now.
 
knifenut, I'm gonna guess that was done by hand on the DMT plates? Absolutely beautiful.
 
rmd.jpg


Yeah so I got impatient and just did it :)

Not quite as polish-y as knifenut's beauty though. And now shaving sharp, but not popping sharp. Still got a little work to do on it.
 
knifenut, I'm gonna guess that was done by hand on the DMT plates? Absolutely beautiful.

220-2k sandpaper followed by 6, 3, and 1 Micron diamond compound on a JRE sharpening block.
 
Hey, thanks :)

I've recently gotten into belt sander sharpening, so I did most of it with a 600 grit, then 1000 and a strop with green compound from trugrit (JACKSONLEA ?).

I think I'm going to pick up a 300-400 grit belt soon (right now I have 120, 220, 600, 800, 1000). Do you have any recommendations? Whether in regard to grit, process, strop compound, etc.? I still haven't mastered the hair-popping-sharp thing. Not sure what the mysterious technique is! I wouldn't mind a nudge :)
 
Man all this talk of sharp RMDs is making me want to show off :D

My edges are coming along but i still have a long ways to go. I think there's about three levels of sharp past where I am getting. But for my uses, I am very pleased with the performance even though they could be alot better.

Few things in life make you as happy as wicked sharp blade :D

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