Sharpening Slipjoints

Joined
May 8, 2001
Messages
536
Just managed to get my Kissing Crane stockman scary sharp using my Lansky system.Was wondering which sharpening sytems you guys find works well for the average slipjoint? The Lansky seems OK to me as I do not have the magic for freehand sharpening.
Another quick sharpening question: the hones on the lansky are starting to get clogged with metal particles: is it necessary to 'clean' the hones - if so with what? TIA
 
I just use a basic 6" stone that is coarse on one side, fine on the other. I think I picked it up at a hardware store for about 10 bucks. Depending on who you talk to, you will hear that oil is required, some say its not. I chose to just use my stone with no oil. It does eventually become clogged, after it does I just put it in the dishwasher, and its good as new. I have no problem putting shaving edges on my knives with it.

I had tried freehand sharpening on and off for years and could never do it. Then one day I was at a persons house who uses a little stone. I watched him for about 5 minutes and it just "clicked" for me how to do it. I dont know why I could never do it before as it is just so easy and quick to do. I then got rid of my Gatco (lansky look-a-like), and my Spyderco sharpmaker. I wouldnt trade a decent stone away for all the systems out there.

Note: One thing I have heard that I have followed is this. If you should decide to use a stone with no oil, than you should never try oil on it even once. Its been told to me that once you do oil, you must keep it up each time you sharpen. I dont know how accurate that really is, but I just keep oil away from mine.
 
I use a stone as well, but I do use oil. Had a sharpmaker for a short time, but I like a stone better. I am going to get a couple of Japanese water stones and give them a try.
 
To clean use a SOS pad or something like it. I scrub under running water, works great.
 
Richard,

Can you share what is the thing that 'clicked'? I want to improve my freehand also.

Currently how I do it is edge facing away technique, using both hand (right for one side, left for other side) and try maintaining same angle for both hands.
 
I stick with the 204 for slipjoints as well. Use EXTRA care since you can round off a point. I wouldn't advise SOS (you can leave rust stains) Scotchbrite, bronze wool, cleanser all work well. For oiled stones, an occaisional scrub with Hoppes #9 works wonders!
 
Bali, I really cant say what it was. One day I was over in Arkansas visiting with knifemaker Max Burnett (aka MaxTheKnife) of OGG custom knives. He carries around a small DMT pocket stone (about 3" x 1"). He was able to use it for just about any knife he wants to sharpen. I watched him so a good size bowie on that tiny stone, and he had no problem getting a hair popping edge in about a minute. It seems that he just adjusted the stroke so that the entire edge could be swiped in one motion.

When I used to try free hand, I would always set the stone down and try and hold the knife with both hands. I would then slowly push the knife while trying desperately to hold the angle exact. When I watched Max sharpening, he held the little stone by its fold out handle and sharpened very fast. Like he was trying to whittle a stick in record time or something. He would raise the burr and then do the other side. Once that burr was raised he would lightly alternate sides a few times and then 'strop' it on his overalls a few times. Next thing ya knew there was a truely razor edge. Razor sharp is an over used term, but his really did qualify.

I think that most of us who try to hard to keep the angle exact tend to wobble the knife up and down while we are doing our slow deliberate strokes which actually causes a round edge. A nice consistent and fairly quick stroke will get the knife down the stone at a consistent angle for that stroke.

I once saw an article by Wayne Goddard in Blade magazine. He said that although consistent angles are important, nobody can get it exactly perfect everytime and that it is not the most important. If you hit one side at 15 degrees, and the other side at 16, its not going to hurt anything.

Do one side until you raise a burr. Even if your strokes on that one side are off a half a degree or so, you can still get a great edge. Just be as consistent as you can, and try not to go so slow that you rock the edge up and down on one stroke.

Geez, I dont know if what I just typed helped or not. Its just one of those things that I discovered by accident how easy it really is, but my ability to explain it is lacking severely.

Im not sure how well free hand sharpening will translate to photographs, but I will think about that for the next day or so and see if I cant come up with good clear explanations to go with easy to understand photos.

Just keep in mind when I get some pics done that the method or whatever is not my own, I will just be passing along what I was shown by somebody who is better at it than I am.

If you have read this entire post and are not dizzy with confusion yet, I commend you :)
 
Exactly, Richard! I used to use real slow strokes, and a hard stone. I would take forever, and only occasionally get a good edge. Then I read somewhere to go heal to toe, using quick strokes. Works like a champ!
I usually hold the stone in one hand, and the knife in the other. I do use diamond stones as well as Arkansas stones with oil. Sure, there are guys who can get a lightsaber edge, but I am happier with my edges now than I ever was before.
 
I also found that sharpening slow and careful made for a poor edge. I never new it was true for anyone else. Very interesting. I have a round ceramic rod with a wood handle, came free when I bought a Sebenza long ago. I use it to "steel" my carry blade every day or three. I do 10 quick strokes per side. Seems to keep all my knives plenty sharp. Freehand is a little hard to get the hang of, but is actually pretty easy and convenient, when it "clicks".
 
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