Sharpening small blade on medium Victorinoxes

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Jun 17, 2015
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I have a Lansky sharpening kit and I could use a little help here. This is one of the newer versions (as new as 2015 could get, I guess) where the clamp no longer has the notch for smaller blades.

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The problem I'm having is that the damned clamp is in the stone's way when I try to sharpen the small blade at a 20deg angle.
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This makes it impossible to sharpen the small blade under any circumstances. The large blade don't see this problem. Any advice?
 
If you'd be willing to try, it might be worthwhile to use that small blade to learn how to freehand sharpen.

You can use the same Lansky stones you'd use with the angle guide and honestly, those small blades sharpen in no time at all.

Just try to lay the blade on its bevel and maintain the angle on both sides. I bet you find it quick and easy to accomplish.
 
Is that one of the clamps with the plastic/rubberized 'grippers' at the end? It looks like the clamp itself is actually notched, but with those gripping pads placed into them. If so, I can't help but wonder if the clamp would still be in the way with those pads removed, and the blade held between the metal ends of the clamp. Just 'thinking out loud' here. It may not be worth going to that trouble, but it makes me wonder if those pads are part of the problem in this case, as they appear to offset the blade too far below the edge of the clamp, out of the hone's reach. I also wonder if angling the back end of the clamps a little higher, by loosening the front screw slightly and tightening the rear screw to lift the back end, might angle the front edge a bit downward to allow the hone to pass over it without colliding.

I used to have one of the notched clamps, but gave it away. It had just enough clearance with pen-sized blades, that the hones would occasionally brush against the edge of the clamp, leaving it scuffed a little bit, but still reach the blade's edge for sharpening. Just enough room to get the job done, in other words. I used the '20' sharpening notch for those blades, IIRC.

That being said, as others have mentioned, sharpening that small blade freehand would be pretty easy. A new bevel can even be set on such a small, thin blade in just a few passes on something like a Fine (600) diamond hone. I've done it this way sometimes, with blades of that size and of similar low-alloy stainless. Also would be pretty easy to set a bevel on a V-crock-type sharpener (Sharpmaker, Lansky TurnBox, etc), also used with diamond rods. Improvising further along those lines, the existing Lansky hones could be 'propped' in a V-crock config at an angle of your choosing, minus the clamp, and used that way. Wouldn't take long to get the bevel set, as the small & thin blade stock will grind into shape quickly.
 
i would get rid of that clamp and get the "old" one before they put those rubber jaws in there.
they are still available, and that rubber clamp is the most frustrating thing I've encountered in a while.

it may not solve the problem, small blades can be tough on the lansky at even the higher angles.

otherwise, Obsessed's last paragraph is a solid idea to that blade
 
Might be worth checking with Lansky directly.

I'm looking at their site this morning, and they're still showing the 'original design' knife clamp available for purchase through their site (part# LP006, about $12, linked below). It's the one with the dedicated notches for smaller blades. If they still have it, it should work for the SAK pen blade. As far as I can see, it's the same clamp I used to have, and it worked with mine at the '20' angle setting.

https://lansky.com/index.php/products/multi-angle-knife-clamp/

The clamp referenced in your original post is what Lansky calls the 'Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp', which they also carry through their own site and is linked within the above-referenced page for the other clamp. The padded 'soft' jaw inserts are intended for use with high-polished or coated finishes on blades, for those wishing to protect against scratching. BTW, in their own description for this 'soft-grip' clamp, they mention it's "Not for use on blades 1/2" wide or less."
 
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Just strop the small blade on the bottom of a coffee mug and it will be sharp enough for whatever you need it for.

Every knife nut needs to know how to free hand sharpen. It's an invaluable skill that frees you up so you can touch up your blade anytime, anywhere.
 
I have a Lansky sharpening kit and I could use a little help here. This is one of the newer versions (as new as 2015 could get, I guess) where the clamp no longer has the notch for smaller blades... Any advice?
Hi,
Have you tried clamping the red SAK handle? If the handle fits in the clamp it ought to work :)
 
I sure hope Etna hasn't fallen into the volcano...

Etna, can you hear us?
 
Tormek makes a small knife jig might work for that, I do not have any experience with Lansky though.
Anyways it did work for me with wicked edge .
 
I sure hope Etna hasn't fallen into the volcano...

Etna, can you hear us?
Relax, I'm still alive. :)

Might be worth checking with Lansky directly.

I'm looking at their site this morning, and they're still showing the 'original design' knife clamp available for purchase through their site (part# LP006, about $12, linked below). It's the one with the dedicated notches for smaller blades. If they still have it, it should work for the SAK pen blade. As far as I can see, it's the same clamp I used to have, and it worked with mine at the '20' angle setting.

https://lansky.com/index.php/products/multi-angle-knife-clamp/

The clamp referenced in your original post is what Lansky calls the 'Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp', which they also carry through their own site and is linked within the above-referenced page for the other clamp. The padded 'soft' jaw inserts are intended for use with high-polished or coated finishes on blades, for those wishing to protect against scratching. BTW, in their own description for this 'soft-grip' clamp, they mention it's "Not for use on blades 1/2" wide or less."

Lansky does not ship to my country, so I asked my favourite shop to see if he can do me this favour by bringing in it, since I am already getting the serrated hones from him to use on my Victorinox Trailmaster. Let's hope he is okay with it, because I really have no confidence in freehand sharpening.

Perhaps in another two years I will have gained the guts to try again, but until then I'll probably stay with the angle-guided clamps.
 
Look at the guide rod in relation to the stone's surface. The rod needs to be lowered in the clamp which will raise the stone up. I set the stone with the rod in it on a table and adjust the rod so it is on the same plane as the stone. The clamp on the blade also needs to set back further which is why you really need the old style clamp with the steps in it. I have always just free handed the small Vic blades on a bench stone. It doesn't really matter that much if your are stoning at exactly 19 or 20 or 22 degrees. Raise the stone on the guide rod. I would also toss the pads - if I am worried about scratching a blade with the clamp I just place some masking tape over the blade where the clamp holds it. Any glue from the tape that sticks to the blade can be easily removed with some lighter fluid. I agree with everyone who said to learn to freehand. Once you do that Lansky will crawl off to die in the back of a drawer.
 
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