Sharpening Steels

P

pinetree

Joined
Jun 24, 2005
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I know that a steel does not "sharpen" but I find the big steel in my kitchen can "reset" the edge turning what seemed like a dull knife into a ripe tomato slicer. My question, do steels work in the field. I have a Grohmann #4. After I bought a Sharpmaker, I finally got a great edge on it and want to carry it afield. The problem is the sheath - well made but poor design. I was at their website and they offer a replacement pouch sheath which I really like with a place for their 6" steel. I'm thinking about buying both as I'm not sure what else to use the pouch for, maybe my Streamlight Lens Pen or a Marlin Spike?

Thanks
tjg
 
I've used a Schrade Old Timer steel in the field for hunting for a long time. It's a flat steel with a chisel point (good for going through the aitch bone) and the rounded edges are more aggressive than the flats. The sheath can be snapped to the steel and used as a handle. I really like it.
 
Steels work through edge deformation. They work fine in a kitchen with thin stocked knives especially as you can steel as often as you need. With pocket knives and high end steels the edge deformation of a steel will weaken the edge, meaning it'll have to be steeled often to remain "sharp".

When I learned this I stopped steeling altogether (except on my kitchen blades) and started stropping my blades (on denim, leather, canvas); and have had great results. I'll steel if I have no other options though.

I pack a cheap Lansky ceramic stick for when I am camping and strop (edge trailing) on that if my edges won't strop up on leather, canvas, or denim.
 
Deadhead Archer said:
Steels work through edge deformation. They work fine in a kitchen with thin stocked knives especially as you can steel as often as you need. With pocket knives and high end steels the edge deformation of a steel will weaken the edge, meaning it'll have to be steeled often to remain "sharp".

When I learned this I stopped steeling altogether (except on my kitchen blades) and started stropping my blades (on denim, leather, canvas); and have had great results. I'll steel if I have no other options though.

I pack a cheap Lansky ceramic stick for when I am camping and strop (edge trailing) on that if my edges won't strop up on leather, canvas, or denim.
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That's really interesting ARCHER: I have never heard that before. Not at all trying to be argumentative or disbelieving of what you've said but could you tell me how that is? Because I have been told in the past that steeling a blade edge actually burnishes the edge and realigns it.

Now I can see where that might only apply to kitchen and culinary type knives because when you think about it that's the only time I ever see sharpening steels is in those settings.

I do use a steel occasionally on some of my fixed blade knives and especially my 2 fillet knives. But I can see where these newer super alloys that they are using on today's high end folders might indeed be a different animal.

Also could you tell me the differences between burnishing and deformation? I do really find this interesting. I always like to dispell false information that I might have been given. Interesting thread so far. JD
 
There are two types of steel, smooth and 'not smooth'.
The smooth ones are good for straightening an edge that has been bent over sideways, although flexing the edge makes it weaker and repetition may actually break the edge off.
The 'not smooth' steels take off some metal from the edge, just like grinding, and will leave micro-serrations that are great for slicing. This edge wears faster than the smooth edge produced by honing because all the 'cutting' is done by the points of the serrations and is a combination of cut and tear.
The ceramic sticks are a type of 'not smooth' steel, and do take off blade material in order to sharpen.
There is some speculation that smooth steels can deform the edge and push material out to the very edge and sharpen that way but I've seen no photographic evidence of that.
I recommend you search out Verhoeven's .pdf's on sharpening. He has lots of micro-photographs that give a good picture of sharpening in action.
Greg
 
Greg said:
There are two types of steel, smooth and 'not smooth'.
The smooth ones are good for straightening an edge that has been bent over sideways, although flexing the edge makes it weaker and repetition may actually break the edge off.
The 'not smooth' steels take off some metal from the edge, just like grinding, and will leave micro-serrations that are great for slicing. This edge wears faster than the smooth edge produced by honing because all the 'cutting' is done by the points of the serrations and is a combination of cut and tear.
The ceramic sticks are a type of 'not smooth' steel, and do take off blade material in order to sharpen.
There is some speculation that smooth steels can deform the edge and push material out to the very edge and sharpen that way but I've seen no photographic evidence of that.
I recommend you search out Verhoeven's .pdf's on sharpening. He has lots of micro-photographs that give a good picture of sharpening in action.
Greg
Click to expand...

Smooth steels realign edges and that's all they do. They do NOT deform the edge, rather push it back to where it belongs. If the edge "breaks off" - time to resharpen. If, in the original post, this is what is referenced, when in the field use a beer bottle or the top edge of your driver's side window. Glass is harder than steel and it works exactly the same as a smooth steel.
 
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