Sharpening Stone

TheDandyLion

TheDandyLion

Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
764
Unfortunately my favorite set of sharpening stones has been lost (long story) so I'm in the market for a new set. I'm on a budget as always so noting to crazy;). As far as grit goes I am indifferent as long as it gets my knives paper whittling sharp so maybe 800-2000? And I prefer freehand but I am open to a guided system. I have never really shopped for stones before so I would appreciate any suggestions you can give me.



Thanks,
~TheDandyLion
 
Norton India stone is very good, as is Norton Crystalon. The India is aluminum oxide, makes a somewhat finer edge. The Crystalon is silicon carbide and will grind a wide variety of steels well. Is a bit faster than the India but a touch less refined.

If you follow the link in my signature, I sell a freehand sharpening block that might interest you. Makes a full service kit in a small package with a lot of flexibility.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ THIS!

I just picked mine up, got some 220-1500 grit silicon carbide sandpaper and got to learning how to freehand on the washboard. It's wonderful, coming from a novice whose technique really benefits from the extra feedback afforded by the design of the washboard. At $48 shipped its a great budget option and i can't recommend it enough.
 
Norton med/fine Crystolon, WashBoard strop, $10 pack assorted sandpapers from auto shop (can run up to 3000, usually) and copy paper for stropping with HH's proprietary compound. Take the change from the $100 bill you started with, buy yourself a couple of tall, cold ones and pat yourself on the back for being a ferocious bargain hunter. These are all my kitchen knives see anymore. This week, I reprofiled a broad head hatchet blade on my Norton med hone and broke in my new diamond hones with it. Sharp hatchet! I play with my other stuff when I have the time for fun. I sharpen with the first set of items I described when I'm short on time, patience or overloaded and need to save time. They do my sharpening work extremely well without help from any other quarter. No matter what steels I've tried-so far that's a host of no-namers, carbon and stainless, some 1095, 440A,B,C, 154CM, S30V, and ZDP-189. This method leaves a fine, toothy edge I prefer for cutting /slicing work, but there's always the option of stropping those edges smooth-on the WB with copy paper and compound. Gets it up there in the scary zone. The WashBoard gets easier and easier to like , the more you use it.
 
3rd the washboard. Plus HH is one of the nicest, most decent guys you'll meet. He'll bend over backwards to make sure you get the most out of it. :thumbup:
 
You guys make me want to buy one!

Am a little humbled and a lot stoked that folks are getting such good use (and talking about it) from this device. I imagine its hard for many to believe there was any low-hanging fruit left in the sharpening world, (its good to be skeptical) but the WB concept wasn't hanging all that low on the tree - took a lot of work and a bit of luck to develop it.

I am delighted others are getting the same range of results I get - aside from heavy duty stock removal, I seldom use anything else anymore. Another big "thanks" to all who gave it a go or sat through the current videos. I'm planning another video on a Fiskars X7 to go with the series, but need things to slow down at work first...
 
Well at this point it looks like it would be hard not to get a WashBoard! but I need to know because I have used sandpaper attached to a variety of things so have anyone had issues with your blade cutting through the paper?
 
TheDandyLion said:
Well at this point it looks like it would be hard not to get a WashBoard! but I need to know because I have used sandpaper attached to a variety of things so have anyone had issues with your blade cutting through the paper?
Click to expand...

Sandpaper is best-used with an edge-trailing stroke (like stropping), mainly for that reason. It can be used edge-leading with light pressure, and it's best to firmly affix it to a hard backing like glass when used this way (some temporary adhesive or contact cement works for doing this). With good technique (light pressure, and good angle control), it's very similar to sharpening on a stone, when the paper is used on glass. If the paper isn't affixed to the glass, the edges will typically curl upward, and will be cut by the blade as a result.


David
 
TheDandyLion said:
Well at this point it looks like it would be hard not to get a WashBoard! but I need to know because I have used sandpaper attached to a variety of things so have anyone had issues with your blade cutting through the paper?
Click to expand...

Obsessed with Edges said:
Sandpaper is best-used with an edge-trailing stroke (like stropping), mainly for that reason. It can be used edge-leading with light pressure, and it's best to firmly affix it to a hard backing like glass when used this way (some temporary adhesive or contact cement works for doing this). With good technique (light pressure, and good angle control), it's very similar to sharpening on a stone, when the paper is used on glass. If the paper isn't affixed to the glass, the edges will typically curl upward, and will be cut by the blade as a result.


David
Click to expand...

Yes, helps to keep it wrapped tight around whatever you're using, and helps to have it wrap around the sides more so than the ends. Use edge trailing for the bulk, with some very light leading passes to deburr. This is another help for keeping the contact very light, hard to cut the paper if you're only working against the slack/bow of the paper. Can also use a robust fore and aft scrubbing motion when working on the back bevel etc, most of the work is done with a trailing stroke.

If interested in more info, I made a handful of fairly short videos - 12 minutes ea or so - that show how I use my Washboard pretty much exactly and discuss this specifically. You can also use AlumOx, SiC or diamond lapping film and it works very well on those too ( I have only tested AlumOx film but worked nicely). They are every bit as prone to inadvertent cutting, but with a little practice its not much of a concern. Once accustomed, it is a very user-friendly way to go.
 
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