Sharpening stone

Boberama

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I dug up one of those yellow 325-grit Smith stones in my garage and sharpened two knives, one is AUS4 and one in AUS8 and finished them with a chef's steel.

Now they shave hair off my arm. At least for now.

Why do I need to buy a 750, 1000 or 2000 grit stone or sharpening system?
 
My mainstay sharpener has been the 4 dollar Smith's arkansas stone as well. After 3 years of use it's at the point where the bow in the middle makes it pretty useless as a sharpener but it sits in the gear box as a nostalgic reminder that there's alot to be said for making due with what you have. It's easily packable, cheap, easily maintainable, lasts a good long time and can apply a scandinavian grind, flat grind, convex grind, you name it. Applied to wilderness and survival, the Air Force Survival Bible repeatedly mentions knowing the capabilities and limits of your tools and utilizing them correctly within their capabilities to maximize effectiveness and reduce breakage and unnecessary wear. If you spend enough time behind a simple arkansas stone, you can learn so much about your knife and just how far you can go to maintain it with such a simple piece. That goes for every bit of gear you own.
 
You really don't need those others unless wanting to take it finer. Try stropping it on a decent piece of leather and see what you get. DM
 
The main reason I prefer to finish to a higher grit, is because it's much easier to touch up on a strop, or cardboard, wood, paper or whatever's available. It's more challenging to maintain a coarse edge this way, without some more aggressive abrasives. Almost never need to return to the stones, unless I actually damage the edge or want to alter the bevel a little bit. If I do let the edge get too dull for the strop, then a few passes on high grit sandpaper will put the bite back in it. High-grit touch-ups remove less metal than coarse-grit touch-ups. Blades will last longer for this reason, if carefully maintained at a higher-grit finish. I'm reminded of this, every time I see an 'older' knife that was obviously taken to a grinder every time it got 'touched up'. That's the extreme example of overkill sharpening, but it illustrates the point.

As with all things sharpening-related, it's all a matter of preference, not need. And regardless of grit, no one actually needs to buy a complex/expensive 'system' of any kind. A system can make learning the process easier or quicker, but it's not necessary. Sharpening is only as complicated as one makes it. The simplest and cheapest of tools (a block of wood, a piece of leather and some sandpaper, for instance) will do fine, if applied thoughtfully.
 
I dug up one of those yellow 325-grit Smith stones in my garage and sharpened two knives, one is AUS4 and one in AUS8 and finished them with a chef's steel.

Now they shave hair off my arm. At least for now.

Why do I need to buy a 750, 1000 or 2000 grit stone or sharpening system?

You don't -- possibly for the same reason I don't need to buy a tack-driving competition pistol used for long-distance precision shooting. The gun would be more accurate than I am capable of using.
 
I dug up one of those yellow 325-grit Smith stones in my garage and sharpened two knives, one is AUS4 and one in AUS8 and finished them with a chef's steel.

Now they shave hair off my arm. At least for now.

Why do I need to buy a 750, 1000 or 2000 grit stone or sharpening system?


The Smith's 325 grit diamond stone puts on a great edge - nice mix of draw and push cut characteristics.
 
I dug up one of those yellow 325-grit Smith stones in my garage and sharpened two knives, one is AUS4 and one in AUS8 and finished them with a chef's steel.

Now they shave hair off my arm. At least for now.

Why do I need to buy a 750, 1000 or 2000 grit stone or sharpening system?

No you don't NEED to.

To finish off the edge you could get a crock stick (Ceramic Rod), also great for touch ups, other than that nope.
 
I use japanese water stones, and most of my work is done with grits in the thousands, up to 8 or 9K. I feel like they make a big difference. I can definitely see the edge getting sharper as I work my way up. I guess I'm not sure if it would work as well if I jumped from a coarse to a very fine stone. But if your method is working for you, then it works.
 
Any idea if Smith's 325 'grit' is similar to DMT's 325 'mesh' (Coarse; 45 micron), performance-wise?

DMT being monocrystaline, and Smith's being poly I imagine the Smith's might be a touch less aggressive. I have a coarse DMT, but its a small wallet card and haven't tried to do a side-by-side. They feel very similar.
 
DMT being monocrystaline, and Smith's being poly I imagine the Smith's might be a touch less aggressive. I have a coarse DMT, but its a small wallet card and haven't tried to do a side-by-side. They feel very similar.

Thanks. That's what I wondered about, DMT's mono vs poly diamond. I haven't tried the Smith's, and can only compare to either my Lansky or Gatco diamond hones, neither of which will cut as aggressively as the DMTs. I'm assuming those are poly as well.

(I'm gonna have to get me a coarse wallet card from DMT; I have the Fine & EF, and I like 'em.)
 
Your edge would be easy to maintain with a coarse stop and with very little metal removal. DM
 
I dug up one of those yellow 325-grit Smith stones in my garage and sharpened two knives, one is AUS4 and one in AUS8 and finished them with a chef's steel.

Now they shave hair off my arm. At least for now.

Why do I need to buy a 750, 1000 or 2000 grit stone or sharpening system?

You don't.

For at least a year now, I've been using the boy scout stone I found in my attic. One of those gray aluminum oxide so called 'carborunum' stones. It's somewhat around 300 something in grit, and it puts a shaving edge on my pocket knives. Finish up on the bottom of a coffee cup and a stropping on the back of a belt and it's hair popping sharp. When I was a kid, that's all we used, and it did just fine. I watched my granddad sharpen up his pocket knife too many times on the bottom of a coffee cup.

I think a lot of the stuff they sell is like all those fishing lures in the store, they're made to catch fishermen. Same with all the so called improvements of the newer and 'better' sharpening stuff. It's a way to get your money out of your pocket and into their pockets.

Phil, great analogy on the guns. I'd rather have a nice loose GI issue 1911 to defend my home than a custom super target Kimber that groups nice at 50 yards. Since most defense situations are closer than 10 yards, I want reliable over super accurite.

Carl.
 
Some go with what works, others want to know how well it can work.
 
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