Which is better for a diamond sharpening stone, a flat continuous surface, or the round buttons on the DMT? They make both types, so which is better and why? Apparently they recommend the continuous surface for small tools like chisels, and the buttons for longer edged blades.
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sharpening stones: continuous surface or non-continuous?
- Thread starter olpappy
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- Jan 10, 2005
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I have been very satisfied with my DMT holey diamond plates, but there are times I wish they did not have those holes. You have to be careful to move the blade around or they can sharpen a bit unevenly due to the holes. I almost always finish using waterstones so it's not a big deal. I can see these plates lasting many years as long as you use water when sharpening. I wish I would have gotten the DMT plates with a small area at one end with no holes now - a few bucks more but a little easier when trying to reprofile a tip.
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- Apr 27, 1999
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If you only sharpen edges that are very straight there isn't much difference. The more curve on your blade the more the curve can fit into the holes in a perforated sharpener. I only use my perforated hone for rough sharpening. All my finish hones are flat.
Broos said:
What do you use to flatten your waterstones when they get worn? One of the reasons I was thinking of getting a diamond plate was because some folks use them for flattening water stones. But then again, I have also heard that it can be done with wet dry sandpaper on a plate glass or piece of marble which is flat..... I already have a very inexpensive coarse diamond plate with holes, but it sounds like one without holes would be better to flatten a waterstone.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback!
I wish I'd never gotten the Duosharp (interrupted surface) I'm in the process of replacing them with the Diasharp (continuous surface) 8".
I do have a cheap continuous diamond plate from Harbour freight that I have used for flattening waters stones. Works very well.
My main way to flatten EdgePro stones is a 16" square of glass (cut from the cracked side window of a case loader) this is safety glass with the plastic in the middle it's THICK and stable. A tablespoon of loose grit add water to make a light paste and grind away. I can flatten a double lot of EdgePro stones, 12 stones in less than half an hour. Have to add water as you go to maintain the slurry/paste but it does last. Let it dry on the glass for the next time. Have to add about 1/2 a tablespoon of grit every 4th flattening session or just start fresh.
This works surprisingly well on every stone I've tried it one including oil stones.
I do have a cheap continuous diamond plate from Harbour freight that I have used for flattening waters stones. Works very well.
My main way to flatten EdgePro stones is a 16" square of glass (cut from the cracked side window of a case loader) this is safety glass with the plastic in the middle it's THICK and stable. A tablespoon of loose grit add water to make a light paste and grind away. I can flatten a double lot of EdgePro stones, 12 stones in less than half an hour. Have to add water as you go to maintain the slurry/paste but it does last. Let it dry on the glass for the next time. Have to add about 1/2 a tablespoon of grit every 4th flattening session or just start fresh.
This works surprisingly well on every stone I've tried it one including oil stones.
If my coarse DuoSharp hone ever wears out, I'll replace it with a smooth diamond plate.
The DuoSharp tends to leave some ugly 'troughs' due the voids on the surface - which requires extra honing to remove. Some of this is my problem - a bit less honing pressure and some variation in direction honing strokes will at least minimize the problem.
It'll be a smooth diamond plate next time.
The DuoSharp tends to leave some ugly 'troughs' due the voids on the surface - which requires extra honing to remove. Some of this is my problem - a bit less honing pressure and some variation in direction honing strokes will at least minimize the problem.
It'll be a smooth diamond plate next time.
My DMT's have holes and I haven't had any issues, even with the x-course stone. I'm glad they have holes. Why you ask? Because they will remove steel very effectively and if they were solid I might get myself in trouble by removing more steel than I needed to.