Sharpening Stones

[Swp321]

I know I know here we go again, another sharpening stone question. I’ve read through the forums and some people agree and some disagree but I would like to learn how to sharpen on stones. I am diligent about maintaining my knives. I keep them clean, sometimes a strop but now I’m hearing conflicting opinions on strops, so I have owned a work sharp guided system and currently own a Ken onion belt sharpener that I use sparingly. I’ve looked at the sharpening supplies website and at the dmt, shapton etc. I don’t want to go crazy buying stones. I would like to get a few good quality stones to maintain my edges and profile if needed and possibly an angle guide. Wondering what you guys think about a 3-4 stone set. Please feel free to give any advice as I’ve never used stones before. Thank you ahead of time for any advice.

 

[Grasshopperglock]

What steel is your knives?

Forged, old school synthetic stones. 150, 220, 400, and 600.

Powdered steel, diamond 'stones'. Same grits.

 

[Swp321]

I have both I have fixed blades in carbon steel and a folder in magnacut, is there a specific brand that’s better than the other? Do I need whetstones? Like I said I’m new to stones period. Thank you for the grit recommendations I have those noted.

 

[Another Shepherd]

I have both I have fixed blades in carbon steel and a folder in magnacut,

Then you need either diamond or CBN stones, which will sharpen almost anything.

is there a specific brand that’s better than the other?

DMT diamond stones are popular, but I am not qualified to pick out a best brand

Do I need whetstones?

"Whetstone" means a stone used for sharpening a blade. Everything we are talking about here is a whetstone. There are various kinds of whetstones.
Bench stones are used on a work bench or other stable, horizontal surface. The bench stone is stationary, and you move the knife.
There are handheld stones, often called pocket stones. Typically, the knife is stationary and you move the stone
There are rods of various shapes and sizes, which are good for blades that do not have a straight edge. They can be stationary (e.g., the Spyderco Sharpmaker) or handheld (e.g., DMT tapered rods that are very good for serrated blades.
There are stones for guided-angle sharpeners, such as the Work Sharp Precision Adjust.
There are probably others that I cannot think of at the moments.

Like I said I’m new to stones period. Thank you for the grit recommendations I have those noted.

There is no single, standard definition for grit ratings. For a handy chart that summarizes many grit definitions, see
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/abrasives-in-micron-scale-glgc-revision-14-2022.1779773/

 

[Swp321]

Then you need either diamond or CBN stones, which will sharpen almost anything.

DMT diamond stones are popular, but I am not qualified to pick out a best brand

"Whetstone" means a stone used for sharpening a blade. Everything we are talking about here is a whetstone. There are various kinds of whetstones.
Bench stones are used on a work bench or other stable, horizontal surface. The bench stone is stationary, and you move the knife.
There are handheld stones, often called pocket stones. Typically, the knife is stationary and you move the stone
There are rods of various shapes and sizes, which are good for blades that do not have a straight edge. They can be stationary (e.g., the Spyderco Sharpmaker) or handheld (e.g., DMT tapered rods that are very good for serrated blades.
There are stones for guided-angle sharpeners, such as the Work Sharp Precision Adjust.
There are probably others that I cannot think of at the moments.

There is no single, standard definition for grit ratings. For a handy chart that summarizes many grit definitions, see
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/abrasives-in-micron-scale-glgc-revision-14-2022.1779773/

Thank you for taking the time to explain all that in the post. Above and beyond!!

 

[OLd_gUY]

I found this VERY interesting. Might be worth a YouTube look. Suggest you don't overlook the comments.
Shapton Kuromaku.

 

[LimpCroissant]

I found this VERY interesting. Might be worth a YouTube look. Suggest you don't overlook the comments.
Shapton Kuromaku.

Ooo those Shapton Kuromaku's look very nice. I've also been thinking about getting me a nice benchstone for all around use. A one and done type stone, I don't need the mirror edges and all that. I think I might try the 1000 (K0702). Looks like they dish extremely slowly, ya don't need much water, and they'll work for even the crazy high edge retention steels like S110v. Probably even work for Maxamet.

Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Tjstampa]

I have a set of Washita stone. They are 10 inch bench stones, one silica artificial coarse stone, a natural medium stone and a fine stone. This was a great starter set for me 25 years ago, I only had carbon and stainless steel knives, I have since purchased 3 dmt plates in a coarse, fine dua plate an extra fine plate. This combination has served me well for hand sharpening. None of the stones are cupped. I do not use the silica stone that often because I usually touch up my knives before they get too bad, I use the medium the most.I am thinking of asking for the work sharp accu(sp) for my upcoming birthday. It will be my first sharpening system.

 

[Papilio]

I second Shapton Pro. If you want a three stone set, a coarse diamond plate (DMT 325 vor Aroma 400) for setting a new bevel, repairs, thinning combined with Shapton Pro 1000 and 5000. You could use the diamond plate for opening and flattening the Shaptons, too.

If you do not want to spent a fortune for a diamond plate, a DMD (not DMT) combi plate (140 / 400?) would do the job, too. Should be around 25 to 30$ on Amazon.

 

[bgentry]

I second Shapton Pro. If you want a three stone set, a coarse diamond plate (DMT 325 vor Aroma 400) for setting a new bevel, repairs, thinning combined with Shapton Pro 1000 and 5000. You could use the diamond plate for opening and flattening the Shaptons, too.

If you do not want to spent a fortune for a diamond plate, a DMD (not DMT) combi plate (140 / 400?) would do the job, too. Should be around 25 to 30$ on Amazon.

400 grit is not coarse enough for real repairs or for very dull blades. I would definitely want the 140 grit DMD for that purpose. Or the DMT XXC which I've used extensively.

My DMT C lost a good bit of the diamonds on the surface just from me sharpening with too much pressure. I think if I used the DMT C as a flattening stone (on waterstones) it would lose all the diamonds very quickly. This is not recommended.

The DMT XXC has much stronger bonds and does work as a flattening stone.

Brian.