sharpening stones

C

cheftothestars

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Jul 28, 2009
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Ok so I want to get some stones to sharpen my knives

what grit should I get

Ive seen some japanese ones 800 and a 1000 grit is this correct?

thanks
 
he means what are you going to use the knives for?

you'll want some higher grit stones than what you said....probably an rough one, around 800 or so.....a semi smooth one between 1500 and 2000....and a fine one up anywhere between 4000 and 8000.....

you also have to figure out if you want artificial or 'real' stones....
 
I first picked up the King 1000 water stone from Lee Valley. I found that I needed a coarser stone for dull or chipped knives, so I added the 220 Norton water stone. This stone needs to be flattened regularly. For a while, I finished with a leather strop with green compound from Lee Valley. I have recently added the King 4000, but don't have much experience with it yet.

You might like to have more of a gap between your coarse and fine stones, but it may be a good place to start. Good luck.

Joe
 
ok useage is gonna be camp duties, feathering wood, food prep, kindling nothing too hard core as I will have a hand saw for most wood tasks.
 
First of all I would recommend at least one good coarse or extra coarse diamond benchstone for tough reprofiling. After that I don't think you can go wrong with Spyderco's model 302 ceramic benchstones. I've been sharpening for many years and I've used almost every stone imaginable and I still like the results I get with my Spyderco equipment.

Also the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker is a kit sharpener that every serious knife user should have. Along with a set of their 701 Profiles. Let us know what you do get and keep us posted.
 
I moved to DMT diamond hones about 15 or 20 years ago (I've yet to wear one out), and use them for 95% of my sharpening. Much more durable than natural or synthetic stones, much cleaner to use since you don't need water or oil, and far more effective on high-end alloys like S30V, VG-10, ATS-34, etc. I do keep a big Black Arkansas bench stone (inherited from a great uncle who was a cabinet maker), which I use on my high carbon blades (Carbon V, 52100) as it seems to impart a toothier, ultra-fine edge on those steels than I can get even with the DMT ultra fine. I probably spent around $200 all told, a good investment IMHO.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I moved to DMT diamond hones about 15 or 20 years ago (I've yet to wear one out), and use them for 95% of my sharpening. Much more durable than natural or synthetic stones, much cleaner to use since you don't need water or oil, and far more effective on high-end alloys like S30V, VG-10, ATS-34, etc. I do keep a big Black Arkansas bench stone (inherited from a great uncle who was a cabinet maker), which I use on my high carbon blades (Carbon V, 52100) as it seems to impart a toothier, ultra-fine edge on those steels than I can get even with the DMT ultra fine. I probably spent around $200 all told, a good investment IMHO.
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+1
I haven't had my diamond stones as long but of all the stones I've used over the years these work the best. If I would have known of them before I would have saved a lot of money in the long run.
 
I personally use a $15 coarse/fine stone (est. 220/600 grit) for major reprofiling and a 1200 grit King waterstone for honing. I then strop on a leather belt for a good shaving-sharp edge. I'd say this is this is the way to go if you're looking for a cheap solution (unless you're cool with convex edges - in which case a mousepad, $10 worth of sandpaper, and a leather belt do wonders while costing next to nothing)

I'm planning on making my setup a bit more elaborate however: I'm currently waiting on some 0.3micron chromium oxide powder and some tanned leather for making a bench strop. I'll also be buying a 4000 grit water stone some time in the future :D
 
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