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Sharpening system
- Thread starter grig
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2006
- Messages
- 10,795
Welcome to the Forum.
First, what brand of knives are you sharpening? The reason I ask is that different manufacturers profile the angle of their blades differently.
The Kershaw's I have usually come in around 19 to 21 degrees per side. This means using the 40 degree angle on the Sharpmaker (20 degrees per side). Follow the instructions and with a little time, the fine (white) ceramics on the flat side will get your blade shaving sharp. With time, you'll begin to feel when your edge is right as you pull it across the ceramic...there will be less resistance the closer you get to the right edge. Others here will include stropping, but I haven't found the need for that yet. I'm sure in time I will, in pursuit of the "perfect" edge.
I should predicate this on the type of steel in your blade. 440, AUS6 & 8 adapt very well to the Sharpmaker system. Harder steels take more time. I'll spend 20 to 30 minutes working a razor edge with the flat white ceramics on ZDP189.
Keep your stones clean. Use Comet or the like and a scrubbing pad like a 3M. Once the metal builds up on the ceramics, you'll get nowhere.
Flat stones are another issue completely. You have no guide for the degree of angle, and I would suggest practicing on cheap knives before you attempt this with a nice blade. There's a lot of information on sharpening with flat stones in the Tool Shed Forum.
I'm sure others will have a lot more to add...Good Luck!
First, what brand of knives are you sharpening? The reason I ask is that different manufacturers profile the angle of their blades differently.
The Kershaw's I have usually come in around 19 to 21 degrees per side. This means using the 40 degree angle on the Sharpmaker (20 degrees per side). Follow the instructions and with a little time, the fine (white) ceramics on the flat side will get your blade shaving sharp. With time, you'll begin to feel when your edge is right as you pull it across the ceramic...there will be less resistance the closer you get to the right edge. Others here will include stropping, but I haven't found the need for that yet. I'm sure in time I will, in pursuit of the "perfect" edge.
I should predicate this on the type of steel in your blade. 440, AUS6 & 8 adapt very well to the Sharpmaker system. Harder steels take more time. I'll spend 20 to 30 minutes working a razor edge with the flat white ceramics on ZDP189.
Keep your stones clean. Use Comet or the like and a scrubbing pad like a 3M. Once the metal builds up on the ceramics, you'll get nowhere.
Flat stones are another issue completely. You have no guide for the degree of angle, and I would suggest practicing on cheap knives before you attempt this with a nice blade. There's a lot of information on sharpening with flat stones in the Tool Shed Forum.
I'm sure others will have a lot more to add...Good Luck!
You could shave with my woodcarving & woodturning chisels and gouges - and chisels and plane irons. Single bevels were easy... double bevels, like a basic pocket folder, were a nightmare for me. As I dulled my 'good knives', they became residents of my 'butter spreading knife drawer' - if I had attempted to re-sharpen them, they went to the back. I finally bid on a Spydie 'Sharpmaker' on Evil-Bay last week - it arrived Monday.
My carpal tunnel problems have worsened - and my left forearm is naked of hair - but that butter knife drawer is emptying fast! The former re-sharpening attempts take a lot of grey-stone time... and I have cleaned the stones once - probably need it again now - I used Bon Ami. The SM forces you to use a system - even strokes - and takes little off per stroke - pretty much evening out poor style - to an extent. Be careful - and even - and consistent - and patient - and you will make a 'butter knife drawer' resident a user again... I finally have!
Stainz
My carpal tunnel problems have worsened - and my left forearm is naked of hair - but that butter knife drawer is emptying fast! The former re-sharpening attempts take a lot of grey-stone time... and I have cleaned the stones once - probably need it again now - I used Bon Ami. The SM forces you to use a system - even strokes - and takes little off per stroke - pretty much evening out poor style - to an extent. Be careful - and even - and consistent - and patient - and you will make a 'butter knife drawer' resident a user again... I finally have!
Stainz
Hello
I used Lansky turnbox by the time I got Triangle. Actually the first thing I thought abut was taking an old butter knife and trying the sharpmaker. It works perfectly, my wife made a tomato test - passed. However I would like to sharpen my Kershaw Leek (plain ss vesion, 440 steel probably as the blade date is oct 06) to be as sharp as it was out of the box (I can still shave my forearm with my leek). The Leek papers say that blade angle is 17 degree, so I'm not sure if using 40 degree sharpmaker's slot will not spoil the edge.
Kab
I used Lansky turnbox by the time I got Triangle. Actually the first thing I thought abut was taking an old butter knife and trying the sharpmaker. It works perfectly, my wife made a tomato test - passed. However I would like to sharpen my Kershaw Leek (plain ss vesion, 440 steel probably as the blade date is oct 06) to be as sharp as it was out of the box (I can still shave my forearm with my leek). The Leek papers say that blade angle is 17 degree, so I'm not sure if using 40 degree sharpmaker's slot will not spoil the edge.
Kab