Sharpening systems ...

SENGVIN

SENGVIN

Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
870
Ok Guys
So I guess my question is : Is there actually any good sharpening system out there??? I do have Lansky (don't have v-sharp) but I'm not really sure that it is the right think for my knives. I'm not even worry about small blades folders. Those are not even knives (kidding) . What I'm worry about are large thick blades sometimes re-curved. What I'm looking for is to put nice shaving edge on my knives WITHOUT scratching the blade ! yes I can do it freehand on blades that I don't care about. But I have some I just can't scratch and would like to have some system I can trust not to F up my Knife !
The Lansky will not even fit my big knives and even though there is 30 degrees angle on the knife, because the thick spine it puts the whole system off. I would have to set it up 35 degrees ,which is not possible. And yet u have to reposition the whole system 3 times because the blade is too big (Long).
Please don't say wicked edge is the solution to my problem because it is Lansky just up side down.:)
Thanks for any tips :-)
 
Get an edge pro if you don't want the wicked edge. There is a slight learning curve but the edges you can get are fantastic
 
I too have a lansky system and it works well on most knives I've put through it... The more difficult ones that I've run into are the longer blades, not so much the thick ones... If you want to do a convex cutting edge you're in for some work (I'm still working on getting it down with the lansky)

I was thinking about the wicked edge system but it seems that it would run into the same faults as the lansky..

So I'm thinking about the edge pro system.


Has anyone here thought about a group by thing?

richard thurman said:
I made my own knife sharpner. I love it.
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Can we see?
 
theHobbyist said:
I too have a lansky system and it works well on most knives I've put through it... The more difficult ones that I've run into are the longer blades, not so much the thick ones... If you want to do a convex cutting edge you're in for some work (I'm still working on getting it down with the lansky)

I was thinking about the wicked edge system but it seems that it would run into the same faults as the lansky..

So I'm thinking about the edge pro system.


Has anyone here thought about a group by thing?
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What do u think about v-sharp
 
SENGVIN said:
What do u think about v-sharp
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If you're talking about this I can't comment as I've never used one. I have used similar "drag through" sharpeners and the results were less than stellar.

Edit: I just watched a quick youtube commercial for it, looks not bad, I'm still not sure if I would try it though, I would definitely need to see it in action and see the results first hand.
 
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Get a cheap belt sander, some nice belts and practice on scrap knives. It should make short work of your big blades. Eventually I'll be picking up my own, for now sandpaper is doing fine.
 
Bench stones work just fine and really are not difficult to use. Sharpening is not really that difficult. Get an angle guide if you feel you need one.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Bench stones work just fine and really are not difficult to use. Sharpening is not really that difficult. Get an angle guide if you feel you need one.
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Another that does sharpening old school style. Have a Norton IB6 beside me now.
 
555 said:
Another that does sharpening old school style. Have a Norton IB6 beside me now.
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I didn't notice the reply about stones, I used to use stones, I'm not sure why I went away from it... probably, most likely because of how long it took to get stupid sharp edges, and how lazy I had become... I think I may go back to stones, who knows, I do know I'm looking to get away from the lansky system.
 
theHobbyist said:
I didn't notice the reply about stones, I used to use stones, I'm not sure why I went away from it... probably, most likely because of how long it took to get stupid sharp edges, and how lazy I had become... I think I may go back to stones, who knows, I do know I'm looking to get away from the lansky system.
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I own this system too, in Diamond and don't use it. I grew up on using stones. All I've done that's different from the past is, I now use mineral oil on my stones and knives.

And am a nut about keeping stones clean. Scrubbing with an old toothbrush and dish washing liquid, rinsing well and drying with a paper towel.
 
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555 said:
I own this system too, in Diamond and don't use it. I grew up on using stones. All I've done that's different from the past is, I now use mineral oil on my stones and knives.

And am a nut about keeping stones clean. Scrubbing with an old toothbrush and dish washing liquid, rinsing well and drying with a paper towel.
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I've been seriously thinking about going back to stones, the last set I had was an Arkansas stone set, what kind of stones do you use?

PS After thinking about it, there are a lot of good/great systems out there, what it really boils down to is what you get really proficient at. Most systems have their strong points, and have some weakness.
 
Since you can do a good job free hand, why don't you just protect the pretty blades with blue tape ?

I love my edge pro, but if you can free hand, it may not be the best system for the really heavy blades. Even if you go with the EP you would still have to use the blue tape. Some have had problems with scratched blades on the EP.

Of course there is also the paper wheels. I haven't set mine up yet, but by all reports they are fast and effective. A little caution will avoid scratches.

I've never used one, but the Wicked Edge looks like a very different beast than the Lansky. It obviously works on the same principle, but a far better design.

JMHO,
Allen
 
Alberta Ed said:
Bench stones work just fine and really are not difficult to use. Sharpening is not really that difficult. Get an angle guide if you feel you need one.
Click to expand...

555 said:
Another that does sharpening old school style. Have a Norton IB6 beside me now.
Click to expand...

This is how I'd be leaning, also. A fairly large bench hone, especially something like an 8" or larger coarse/fine diamond or silicon carbide hone, plus a DMT Aligner clamp would do very well. Unless the blade is just HUGE (maybe 10" or more), this setup will handle most anything. Recurved edges could be sharpened using a cylinder horizontally, supported on a tabletop like a bench hone, using sandpaper (wet-or-dry type in silicon carbide). The angle guide could be used with that as well.

The downside to using a Lansky or Gatco, etc with large blades is mainly the small(ish) hones. Clamps can usually be adapted to thick blades using longer screws for the clamp, but the small abrasive surface area of the guided hones will usually be the biggest limitation. Would take forever to re-bevel a very large or thick blade. This is why I think a larger bench hone would be better-suited to the task, especially if paired with an angle guide.
 
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