Sharpening systems.

H

Helderberg

Joined
Dec 8, 2013
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322
I realize I am asking for opinions here but I could use some help. I have the Smith clamping system that I use for my knives and am not happy with the product. The rods do not seat stright in the diamond grips so the angle is not consistant. I like the consept and was wondering if there are better systems similar to the Smith clamp. I found one on the internet, Lansky I believe, that is considerably more money but would be worth it if it works. I also have the Spyderco tri-angle rods but the D-2 and M4 steels just seem to laugh at the dark rods. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Frank.
 
Learn to freehand and buy yourself a Spyderco DoubleStuff stone.

If you feel that Spyderco's ceramic stones "don't work" on D2 or M4, then your sharpening technique needs some improvement. Ceramic is way harder than steel and will sharpen any steel with ease.
 
KME has a nice system. I purchase the diamond system and have just been adding additional stones/accessories monthly.
If you go to youtube and search kme dean o, he has a lot of useful videos.

http://www.kmesharp.com/
 
Wicked Edge is the way to go, best sharpener out there hands down imho. I love mine and I tried a lansky before it and there is no comparison.
 
I have a lansky turnbox and some say that the rod will actually chip steels like D2 and M4 :s Is that true?
 
Wicked Edge all the way! I've had Lansky, Edge Pro, Smiths, and Sharpmaker. In my experience, nothing comes close to producing repeatable, hair-popping sharp edges like the Wicked Edge System. Yep, its expensive, but it is a lifetime answer for keeping your blades sharp. $pend a lot up front and never again have to figure out how to get sharper blades. YMMV, but thats my experience.
 
I have a Wicked Edge as well, as much as I enjoy using it, I don't suggest dropping that kind of cash unless you are a serious knife enthusiast with some mid-high end knives. The Spyderco sharpmaker will work fine, watch youtube videos and read up how to use it as there is no need to spend $300+ on a sharpening system esp. if costs more than anything you own in your collection.
 
I think the Wicked Edge is the most sophisticated of the clamped systems. And the KME is the least expensive clamp that will give you amazing and very precise edges, because of much tighter tolerances of the system. You can still get sharp knives with the lesser priced units, but they are just a bit too sloppy for my tastes.

For non-clamped, Edge Pro is the way to go....as a guided system. Or just take the time to learn to freehand. Unfortunately that is not an option for me with my lack of coordination.

Some like being clamped up, some don't. For me, I think it's the best way to get amazing results with the smallest learning curve. So my vote goes to KME as the best bang for the buck. The KME Gold Diamond stones do just fine on D2, M4, 204p, etc.

But, I also think everyone should have a SharpMaker handy with any of the primary sharpening systems. Once you have that perfect even bevel on a knife, there is no reason to have to go through a full sharpening down the entire profile to just touch up the very edge during use. And I think the SharpMaker medium and fine rods do just fine on the above mentioned tough steels when just touching up or adding a new micro bevel.

Just like a chef may only get their knives sharpened every so often (weekly, monthly, less?), but will most likely swipe their primary knife on a honing rod (steel, ceramic, or otherwise), one or more times throughout a days work. The SM is a great tool to have handy to simply touch up the blade back to that laser edge.

My personal philosophy is that once I have that perfect edge geometry in place on any particular knife, it will most likely not need a full sharpening again unless it's just really been beat hard, or the edge is chipped. A few swipes on the SharpMaker when I notice that the edge is less than perfect, will usually bring it right back to perfect.
 
I like the edge pro apex and after watching some of ApostleP's youtube videos and taking my time to learn can now put a hair popping edge on just about any blade.
 
Best sharpening system I've ever found is the five finger system - free hand! Learn to use it and never be reliant on gadgets again.
Rich
 
I'm going to add another vote for freehand sharpening. It takes a while to learn, but it's a skill and not a machine so it weighs nothing and it goes with you everywhere. I spend several days lut of each week away from home and packing even the smallest sharpening system is out of the question, since learning to sharpen freehand a small diamond stone and some sandpaper is all I need.

In fact, I sometimes pack a little fingernail file thingy I stole from my girlfriend, it's got four pieces of sandpaper in different grits backed by a bit of plastic foam and stuck on a piece of hard plastic. It turned out to be an excellent strop.

At home I use Spyderco ceramic stones and rods.
 
Thank you all for the information. I really appreciate your input and knowledge. I would ask what I should use for the s-curve style blade? I have a Benchmade 710 D-2 and have finally got a decent, not hair poping as some describe it, edge and have put it away as I do not know if I can duplicate it. I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker but I have a problem with rounding off the point on the knife.
Thank you all again for the advice, Be safe, Frank.
 
In making a decision it really all comes down to what your willing to spend. If your going for somthing cheaper, go with the sharpmaker, somthing in the middle the kme or if cost is not an issue go with the wicked edge. With some practice you can get a knife plenty sharp with either of these 3. I would say the wicked edge is the most accurate and easiest way to sharpen your knife as a beginner imo.
 
I'd first consider getting the diamond stones for your Sharpmaker. Really makes a difference getting your initial angle which makes maintaining the edge on your other stones much easier.

But, be very careful. The diamond stones are very aggressive and remove a lot very quickly.

I'd practice on a beater knife first to see how it goes.

For my Sharpmaker, the diamond sleeves, and UF stones were my best add ons to a great system.

I've the Lansky as well and have never had issues with it. Works well. It's just a bit more of a pain to get set up. I've attached my Sharpmaker base to a piece of wood, then just C-clamp it to the bench and get to it. That way I'm not trying to hold it still with my off hand, and usually cut myself less. But I usually find a way to cut myself anyway. Lol.
 
How much are you willing to invest? If money is no objection, I for one would go with EdgePal. I am unaware of any other system that allows you to fully customize both the angles with sub-degree precission, as well as the sphere of your convex sharpening. You are getting a Swedish original handmade product made to last a few generations, no plastic or cheap parts etc. And Thomas is a great guy to work with; will make a custom tool, whatever your sharpening needs are. He takes payment only after your order is completed.

Disclaimer: I am waiting for a product from him, not the most expensive. It will be customized for handling recurved blades. I don't get any kind of rebate for mentioning him.

Disclaimer #2: His system will be overkill for most. But I, for one, would rather forego buying a few knives, and invest in such an item.
 
IMO, you should purchase a quality strop as a starting point, along with rubbing compounds. Most of my sharpening takes place with a strop. I think that most people equate sharpening with removing material from and edge. Your blade typically gets dull because the edge gets sloppy and out of alignment. You don't need to remove material to get it back to factory edge. Most people go crazy with stones and systems that are really not needed unless you need to re profile an edge or repair damage. 98% of your sharpening needs can be taken care of with strops and compounfs.
 
Blues Bender said:
Learn to freehand and buy yourself a Spyderco DoubleStuff stone.

If you feel that Spyderco's ceramic stones "don't work" on D2 or M4, then your sharpening technique needs some improvement. Ceramic is way harder than steel and will sharpen any steel with ease.
Click to expand...

Umm the ceramic rods do not sharpen any steel when ease as you put it. D2 takes forever to sharpen on a grinder. Sure the ceramics would work to touch em up or micro beveling, but not to sharpen or reprofile a really dull or damaged high wear resistant steel.
 
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