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Sharpening Tanto Style Blades
- Thread starter kimber-45
- Start date
Treat it separately is how I would do it. So you have your "primary" portion of your blade and your "tanto" portion. So you don't do one continuous motion like your normally do for most blades.
(And BTW you can't use that emote under "W&C only" here the "W&C" stands for "Wine & Cheese" a sub-forum here.)
(And BTW you can't use that emote under "W&C only" here the "W&C" stands for "Wine & Cheese" a sub-forum here.)
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2011
- Messages
- 795
What are you using?
The trick is to make the intersection of the tanto and primary bevels crisp.
Heres a post I did on the topic.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1157642-Sharpened-Tanto-on-Jnats
The trick is to make the intersection of the tanto and primary bevels crisp.
Heres a post I did on the topic.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1157642-Sharpened-Tanto-on-Jnats
If the edges are not too wide i just use my Paper Wheels.
Did these chisel ground edges a while back with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, as they both were quite blunt.
The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling-bling.
If the edges get a bit wider, especially the slanted edge, then i tend to use my Tormek, like on this Strider GB.
The factory edge had a wide angle and was also quite irregular, so there was room for some improvement.
As you can see i didn't refine the scratch pattern on purpose (as i think it looks good on a knife like this), only removed the burr on the Tormek leather honing wheel, followed by some stropping on a leather handstrop coated with 6 micron diamond paste to create a slightly convex microbevel.
The straight part of the edge now measures around 25 degrees inclusive while the slanted part is about 30 degrees inclusive.
Or i use a combination of Tormek & Wicked Edge, like on this Strider DB-L some time ago.
This is a limited edition of the DB model in CPM-3V steel and made from thinner stock than the usual S30V versions.
Originally it looked like this:
The straight edge was reprofiled on the Wicked Edge sharpener to 30 degrees inclusive & polished up to 6 micron 3M diamond paste, while the slanted edge was done on the Tormek T7 to 45 degrees inclusive & polished up to 15 micron 3M diamond paste.
Both edges will treetop armhair, while the straight edge will also whittle hair in some places.
Now this DB can and will cut, and it still can be used as a sharpened prybar in an emergency.
Some close-ups:
Difference between 15 micron and 6 micron;
Did these chisel ground edges a while back with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, as they both were quite blunt.
The knives are owned by two Dutch Special Forces guys who used & sharpened them while on tour in Afghanistan, and they wanted the new edges to have a little bling-bling.
If the edges get a bit wider, especially the slanted edge, then i tend to use my Tormek, like on this Strider GB.
The factory edge had a wide angle and was also quite irregular, so there was room for some improvement.
As you can see i didn't refine the scratch pattern on purpose (as i think it looks good on a knife like this), only removed the burr on the Tormek leather honing wheel, followed by some stropping on a leather handstrop coated with 6 micron diamond paste to create a slightly convex microbevel.
The straight part of the edge now measures around 25 degrees inclusive while the slanted part is about 30 degrees inclusive.
Or i use a combination of Tormek & Wicked Edge, like on this Strider DB-L some time ago.
This is a limited edition of the DB model in CPM-3V steel and made from thinner stock than the usual S30V versions.
Originally it looked like this:
The straight edge was reprofiled on the Wicked Edge sharpener to 30 degrees inclusive & polished up to 6 micron 3M diamond paste, while the slanted edge was done on the Tormek T7 to 45 degrees inclusive & polished up to 15 micron 3M diamond paste.
Both edges will treetop armhair, while the straight edge will also whittle hair in some places.
Now this DB can and will cut, and it still can be used as a sharpened prybar in an emergency.
Some close-ups:
Difference between 15 micron and 6 micron;
Last edited:
@303tango: the camera i'm using is a rather cheap General Electric E850, bought as a replacement while on holiday in the US a few years ago when our Canon Ixus broke down.
This is it: http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3141
This is it: http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=3141