Sharpening tbe Beckers

G

garage_logician

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Jul 9, 2013
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I am happy to say that I am now the proud owner of three new beckers. A BK11, BK14 and a BK16. Two of them arrived razor sharp but the BK11, not so much. I pulled out the work sharp to put a better edge on it but I have a question. Along with the knives I also bought a Guided Field sharpener from Work sharp. The field sharpener has 20 degree guides on it which is confusing me (easily done). I typically have sharpened my pocket and hunting knives at 25 degrees and my kitchen knives at 20 degrees.

Should I be using 20 degrees for all my knives? Or is 25 degrees the proper bevel? It would make sense to bevel the edge to 25 degrees and then just touch up the edge with the 20 (I think). Right? Or?
-gl
 
Funny thing about the WS field sharpener. Mine arrived yesterday and I had a little time to check it out. The diamond plates have 20 degree angle guides while the ceramic and Strop havde 25 degree guides. I guess WorkSharp would like you to put a micro bevel on your blades. Maybe since it is a "field sharpener" its a quick fix for dull skinning bade.

So, you should be able to use the ceramic and the strop and maintain your 25 degree angle.
Your BK11 should have come with a 15 degree edge. FYI

All of mine get 20 degree edges with the WorkSharp.
 
A lot of guided sharpeners do that, basically instead of refining the edge down to 20 D they thin the edge out at 20, then actually put the sharp edge at 25... not really my cup of tea or anything o well... Typically your slicing blades will do better at 20, then choppers at 25, however I have never followed any sort of degree angle indication... I get out, use the blade, and sharpen/modify as necessary per the performance I am trying to achieve. The 14/15 comes with I am assuming is a 20/15 D angle... well I have thinned those out by hand so there is no telling what the edge really is now... I am not saying this is the right way, but what I am saying is I think a lot of us get REALLY wrapped up in edge angles...

Now on to your issue, there really is not a "proper bevel" and I do not care what anyone says... What needs to be remembered is that a thicker sharper edge will be more resistant to impacts and lateral stress, and may require less maintenance... a thinner cutting edge will be finer and thinner, less resistant to lateral stress and impacts. IE, the edge on my BK9 is basically factory with the shoulders knocked off/softened. Its an obtuse edge I have wailed on without any issues and actually did a lot of cutting over 2 threads posted here and still had a paper slicing edge. However on my other slicier Beckers they are thinned out purty well and will shave your face.

If you want a more direct answer... All of the Beckers you have will perform well with a 20 D edge, whatever gets them sharp...
 
cschol said:
Funny thing about the WS field sharpener. Mine arrived yesterday and I had a little time to check it out. The diamond plates have 20 degree angle guides while the ceramic and Strop havde 25 degree guides. I guess WorkSharp would like you to put a micro bevel on your blades. Maybe since it is a "field sharpener" its a quick fix for dull skinning bade.

So, you should be able to use the ceramic and the strop and maintain your 25 degree angle.
Your BK11 should have come with a 15 degree edge. FYI

All of mine get 20 degree edges with the WorkSharp.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, I am thinking that the smaller knives will definitely get a 20 degree bevel, but I might stay at 25 for the 16.
-gl
 
iwouldhurtafly said:
A lot of guided sharpeners do that, basically instead of refining the edge down to 20 D they thin the edge out at 20, then actually put the sharp edge at 25... not really my cup of tea or anything o well... Typically your slicing blades will do better at 20, then choppers at 25, however I have never followed any sort of degree angle indication... I get out, use the blade, and sharpen/modify as necessary per the performance I am trying to achieve. The 14/15 comes with I am assuming is a 20/15 D angle... well I have thinned those out by hand so there is no telling what the edge really is now... I am not saying this is the right way, but what I am saying is I think a lot of us get REALLY wrapped up in edge angles...

Now on to your issue, there really is not a "proper bevel" and I do not care what anyone says... What needs to be remembered is that a thicker sharper edge will be more resistant to impacts and lateral stress, and may require less maintenance... a thinner cutting edge will be finer and thinner, less resistant to lateral stress and impacts. IE, the edge on my BK9 is basically factory with the shoulders knocked off/softened. Its an obtuse edge I have wailed on without any issues and actually did a lot of cutting over 2 threads posted here and still had a paper slicing edge. However on my other slicier Beckers they are thinned out purty well and will shave your face.

If you want a more direct answer... All of the Beckers you have will perform well with a 20 D edge, whatever gets them sharp...
Click to expand...


Thanks for the feedback. I am on the fence with the 16, I was thinking it should be 25 but then again how much difference will it make if it is 20? Probably a little "sharper" and a little less durable. But that is what the strop is for, right? :-)
 
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