sharpening that darn edge

[J.Vervoorst]

Hi,
maybe I'm just too stupid: I tried to sharpen the asymmetrical edge on my Assault Shaker but never really got it to be hairpopping' sharp.
Yesterday I just changed it to a symmetrical edge by using my guided Lansky sharpener on both sides. Now the thing is dangerously sharp. My question: how much edge strength have I sacrificed by going this route?
And for my future Busse knives: is there a foolproof way to sharpen the asymmetrical/double convex edges?
Thanks a bunch for the help,
Jan

 

[Cliff Stamp]

J.Vervoorst :

how much edge strength have I sacrificed by going this route?

It mainly depends on how close the edge angle now was to the NIB profile. You can estimate it to be linear with the edge angle. So for example a 25 degree bevel is approx. 25% more durable than a 20 degree bevel. Now again this isn't exactly true because durability covers a wide range of aspects and some of them are not strictly linear in dependence, but it does give you an idea.

Going from convex to flat also has an effect as convex edges handle shocks and loads better , but this is secondary to the overall cross section. The primary advantage of convex edge bevels is the versatility. You can have the main part of the edge at say 15 degrees for high cutting ability and then sweep the very edge down to 20-25 degrees to give high durability on dirt and inclusions.

You can achive a similar level of functionality on straight bevels buy double beveling as Joe Talmadge has described. For example if you have sharpened the knife on a 20 degree setting, do touchups on 25. This will make for very rapid sharpening sessions, and give you a high edge durablity with very little loss to cutting ability. Once every few months you will then resharpen the whole bevel at 20 degrees to reset it.

-Cliff

 

[Andrew Lynch]

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
The primary advantage of convex edge bevels is the versatility. You can have the main part of the edge at say 15 degrees for high cutting ability and then sweep the very edge down to 20-25 degrees to give high durability on dirt and inclusions.

I had never thought of that! Thanks for the info Cliff