Sharpening the 710 on a bench stone

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Nov 16, 2008
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Does anyone do this? The recurve in the blade seems like it is slight enough that sharpening on a flat bench stone would be effective, but I haven't tried it yet. Is this recommended?
 
Recurves and flat stones don't make any sense to me, like a round peg in a square hole. I use a ceramic rod (edge pro), and a pice of PVC wrapped with AO sandpaper.
 
Didn't work on my 2.6"x8" DMT stone. I used a DMT Diasharp to do the recurve portion
 
I've never had luck with benchstones for recurves; I own an EdgePro and the 1/2" (inexpensive) stones make sharpening easy.
 
I don't like flat stones for my re-curves. I did have a 710 about 15+ years ago. I've been a member since 99' (different user names technical difficulties.) And back then, I successfully kept a shaving sharp 710 on two of my five DMT flat stones. (coarse and fine.) However, to re-profile the edge, I needed a belt sander/grinder. A ceramic rod works to sharpen, and given enough time, (tens of hours) you could possibly re profile on a ceramic rod. Given the fact that you could keep the same angle that long without cramping up. Lol...

Edited to add: You need to change angles when using a flat stone. As you get to the curve you have to change angles. And you will eventually need to re profile your edge, and with a 1"X30" it can be done in less than a minute.
 
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Sharpen on the corner of the stone, I do my Tasman Salt that way and it is a hawkbill.
 
Edge pro says that you can also round the edges on the stock stones. How you would go about that though I'm unsure, and in any case I haven't tried it since all of my recurves are fairly tight.

As for flat/bench stones I've only succeeded in unsatisfactory results. :o I've never tried a dowel with sandpaper, but I like the sound of it.

My old Lansky seemed to handle an old Kershaw that I had pretty well although I can't remember if it was technique (using the edge of the stones) or the narrow stones themselves. I tend to do all sorts of weird things in order to achieve the results I'm after so who knows...
 
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It takes a lot of fluid movement in the wrist when you're in that curve but it can be done. I've also found a slightly higher angle helps too. I use Lansky stones (the ones used for the guide system, theyre about a half inch in width) freehand sometimes and they work great for my 710.
 
It takes a lot of fluid movement in the wrist when you're in that curve but it can be done. I've also found a slightly higher angle helps too. I use Lansky stones (the ones used for the guide system, theyre about a half inch in width) freehand sometimes and they work great for my 710.

I use my 1/2" 320 grit 'EP' stone, SLOWLY, on the recurve, and use a 30 inclusive angle which gets and keeps the thing pretty sharp.
 
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