Sharpening the differential bevel: assume the following:

[Geoff in Philly]

Let's say the convex side of the edge bevel is finally to the point where stropping and light honing is not enough to restore its ultimate capabilities. Since I don't have a slack belt grinder to restore a convex edge, would a wider(than the other side)flat bevel be a second best alternative? If so what angle would I(you) use to sharpen it? I guess that if the flat side is what? 20*, then the flat angle to replace the convex side should be 30*-40* or so. Or, should I just go for an old fashioned, same angle V bevel. What do you think?

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[Johan]

I've converted several of my Basics to "V" grind and I liked the results (it's really not that hard to do either). But to work on the convex side you don't need a slack grinder (although it would be nice) just some sandpaper and a medium/hard foam block. Tape off the edge of the blade to protect the coating and use the foam-backed sandpaper to sharpen the convex edge. Hope this helps.

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John Milton
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[Strabs]

By trying to incorporate some of Mr. Stamps sharpening recommendations, I've found that using some AO sandpaper on a piece of styrafoam packaging from a grocery store (like vegies or meat is usually backed with)has worked really well for the convex side.

[This message has been edited by Strabs (edited 07-25-2000).]

 

Or you could just send it to Jerry for resharpening.

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[Geoff in Philly]

thanks guys...what grit paper?, what kind of foam block?,do I push into the edge or does the edge trail?, does it really round the edge? do you like the differential grind or the plain V? thanks again.... yours in anticipated nuclear dullness

 

[Cliff Stamp]

The sandpaper you use depends on how blunt the blade is. If you can actually see damage then you will want to go fairly coarse to strip away some metal fast. I finish at 600 and then strop. Of course not all 600 grit is the same and the finish I like is not going to necessarily be the one that performs best for you. Try some experimentation and see what works.

Any kind of foam block will do. I have used various types of foam and even thick leather and cloth. You stroke edge trailing on an angle and when you flip the blade over you want to make sure that the grind lines intersect. This will give you a much stronger edge than if they run parallel.

If you do this on both sides you will end up with a fully convex edge in time. If you want to keep the dual edge use a flat hone on the flat ground side.

-Cliff