Sharpening the saw on a multitool, SAK, Opinel, etc?

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Apr 17, 2010
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What tools are used to sharpen the saws on SAKs and multitools? Also the Opinel folding saw, which seems similar. The saws I have sharpened are larger purpose-built saws with much more room between the teeth to maneuver a file and/or abrasives.
 
I think that if you have to sharpen a SAK saw, then you probably should have been using real saws instead. No disrespect intended.
I can't imagine using one of these tiny saws so much that it would ever need to be sharpened. I can't ever remember anyone saying that they have.
 
I understand your opinion, and I agree in principle. However, knives to me are durable heirlooms. I'd like to be able to say that the saw could potentially survive generations of users if maintained properly. I'd like to be able to buy, say, an Alox Farmer, and know that if the saw dulls decades from now that it can be resharpened.
 
With safety glasses and a face shield - Very carefully use a Dremel or other hand grinder to touch those up.

Very very carefully

Syn
 
Try a file for sharpening chainsaws.

Look here.

[video=youtube;6VezPicHl98]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VezPicHl98[/video]

Kind regards,


Andre
 
I am yet to try this method myself, but I heard that, since the SAK saw teeth are not set, placing flat sides of the saw on a large flat sharpening stone and working them a bit sharpens the teeth just fine. It is WAY faster than doing each tooth individually.
 
I am yet to try this method myself, but I heard that, since the SAK saw teeth are not set, placing flat sides of the saw on a large flat sharpening stone and working them a bit sharpens the teeth just fine. It is WAY faster than doing each tooth individually.

This. The teeth aren't set, so the saw blade is ground with the spine thinner than the kerf to prevent binding instead. Laying the saw blade flat on a stone will uniformly remove material from the entire face of the saw, maintaining this quality while sharpening the teeth.
 
I am yet to try this method myself, but I heard that, since the SAK saw teeth are not set, placing flat sides of the saw on a large flat sharpening stone and working them a bit sharpens the teeth just fine. It is WAY faster than doing each tooth individually.

This is what I do. Just touch them up laid flat on a fine or XF diamond stone. I use them sometimes for small jobs in the yard / garden. They also cut sheetrock quite well.
 
I understand your opinion, and I agree in principle. However, knives to me are durable heirlooms. I'd like to be able to say that the saw could potentially survive generations of users if maintained properly. I'd like to be able to buy, say, an Alox Farmer, and know that if the saw dulls decades from now that it can be resharpened.

I have to disagree with this in principle. If used enough, and knife is going to be worn out, and need either replacing or blade replacement. By nature of what it is, a knife is a disposable piece of equiptment. Every time you sharpen it, you wear away metal. Do that enough times and you wear away the blade. I inherited a couple of old pocket knves that were used by family members. Both were men who were not knife knuts, and used the knives as a cutting tool. By the time they passed away, the knives had blades that were worn down to steel toothpicks. A knife carried and used will not survive generations of users. Just won't happen. Most of the really old knives you see in good shape, were not used much, and probably sat in a drawer for most of their life. A lot of old timers who used their knives, sent them back to the factory for re-blading. Most of the old line companies had that service available bac then. My own father had the same Case pocket knife for 40 years, but it got retired because one reason his arthritis got bad enough that he had trouble opening it, and the second was that he meant to send it back to Case for a new main blade, as it was worn down so much. He tossed it in his sock drawer and never got around to sending it in. He just used a easier opening pocket knife for the last ten years of his life. After he passed away, I sent it in to Case and had a new main blade put in it. It was a very nominal fee.

Victorinox used to have this option, I don't know if they still do. It was something like 5 dollars to replace a blade in a sak. Worth checking out for curiosity. But the little saw will not hold up for unlimited use. For real sawing, I carry a folding saw in the pack, like an Opinel or Gerber/Fiskars sliding blade wonder.

A sak ain't the family sword.

Carl.
 
Anyway, the saw of a SAK is one of the greatest tool for this small size. I use it regulary to cut small wodden panels to stop our pet rats rooming our house ;)
 
Victorinox used to have this option, I don't know if they still do. It was something like 5 dollars to replace a blade in a sak. Worth checking out for curiosity.

It looks like they will do it. I emailed them about the SAK, and got this generic "multitool" email:

"Thank you for contacting Victorinox Swiss Army.

It has to come into us for repair. In order to make sure your multi-tool is properly serviced under the lifetime warranty, we request that you fill outthe form on the link below and send it (together with your multi-tool) to our service center located at the following address.

http://www.swissarmy.com/medias/sys...ments/RepairRequests/Knife Repair Request.pdf

Victorinox Swiss Army
Attn: Service Center
7 Victoria Drive
Monroe, CT 06468

A $5.00 handling charge will be assessed for each unit repaired or replaced under warranty.

Please include your name, home address, email address and telephone number in the event that we may contact you during this process. Also, we suggest you send it in a secure carton (not envelope) via UPS, Fed Ex, or Certified Mail so you will have a tracking number.

We appreciate your business and your selection of a Victorinox Swiss Army multi-tool. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance and thank you again for contacting Victorinox Swiss Army.


Sincerely,


Victorinox Swiss Army Customer Service"
 
Fotobaerchi, thanks for the video. When I used to cut timber for a living I always sharpened my chainsaw freehand the way you show doing it with your SAK. I had never thought of doing it with the saw on a SAK. The burr removal tip at the end of the video was great too - I was amazed at how well that little trick worked. Thanks!
 
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