Sharpening the Seb

Joined
Jun 6, 2002
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Is there a particular angle to adhere to when sharpening the Sebenza? Is it OK to use the Sharpmaker, or would the Edge Pro be better, assuming an angle other than what you get on the Sharpmaker?
 
I've been able to get my Sebenzas screamin sharp on the edge pro apex. I set it on 21 degrees (when you lay the knife on the table, the hollow grind needs two points of contact in order to keep the knife stable while sharpening. This brings the angle down 3 degrees to about 18 degrees.) I rough in the angle with the course stone then I go to medium then fine and I finish with the extra fine (600 grit). I have been able to get my knives sharper than with any other method I've tried. After I get the initial edge on, it takes only a couple of swipes on the the exrta fine stone to bring back the sceamin edge. The nice thing about the edge pro is that you can also easily sharpen kitchen knives.
 
Howdy All,
I have had great sucess with the sharpmaker. I got the diamond and ultra fine rods from http://www.newgraham.com/sharpmaker.htm .Boy, if you start with the diamonds- on the first sharpening, and go through all of the steps to inclue the ultra fine sticks- it is hair popping sharp. :D
Stay Sharp,
Wali
 
I would recommend not starting off using the diamond rods! Especially if the edge is already sharp. You will just remove metal unnecessarily from an otherwise good edge. The diamond rods should only be used if the edge is non existant (such as a spoon). You can easily ruin an edge by using the diamond rods to excess. Sticking with the coarse (grey) stones and the ultra fine (white) stones for daily touch-ups will eliminate the need for the diamond rods.
 
The Sharpmaker is great for keeping a Sebenza sharp, but not if you get to the point of needing to grind back some edge. For that, you might want to consider shipping it in. It'll be tricky to keep the convex bevel, without a belt or strop setup.
 
G'day,
I sharpened my new Sebenza with a DMT Aligner. I found that one side of the blade was fine while the bevel on the other side was rounded off for part of its length, resulting in a edge that was only partly sharp. This meant that I really needed to re-profile the bevel to get a good edge.
I used the coarse, fine, and extra-fine hones and finished with a good stropping on a hard strop coated with polishing paste. The edge is now consistent for the whole length of the blade and far superior to how it was new.
I've known for years than a consistent angle on the bevel is needed to get the best edge but could never get it right without a guide. Obviously the sharpener at CRK can't do it either.
Greg
 
I found that one side of the blade was fine while the bevel on the other side was rounded off for part of its length, resulting in a edge that was only partly sharp. This meant that I really needed to re-profile the bevel to get a good edge.

I noticed the same, once I reprofiled edge...no worries ;)
 
I'm in the process of reprofiling the edge of an older, BG42 Small Sebbie. The BG42 is some wear resistant stuff! Using my Lansky set on the shallowest angle is not a quick process. It's getting there, and is very close to being the sharpest Sebbie I've ever owned.
 
I've followed the recommendations from the forum and use the Sharpmaker at the 40* setting and have consistently kept the S30V blade very sharp. Thanks forum.
 
I would recommend not starting off using the diamond rods! Especially if the edge is already sharp. You will just remove metal unnecessarily from an otherwise good edge. The diamond rods should only be used if the edge is non existant (such as a spoon). You can easily ruin an edge by using the diamond rods to excess. Sticking with the coarse (grey) stones and the ultra fine (white) stones for daily touch-ups will eliminate the need for the diamond rods.

I'll second what K.V. stated. I only use the Sharpmaker to keep an already sharp knife sharp. If you want to reprofile, the Apex is an exceptional tool.


I've been able to get my Sebenzas screamin sharp on the edge pro apex. I set it on 21 degrees (when you lay the knife on the table, the hollow grind needs two points of contact in order to keep the knife stable while sharpening. This brings the angle down 3 degrees to about 18 degrees.) I rough in the angle with the course stone then I go to medium then fine and I finish with the extra fine (600 grit).

Scott dog seems to have a good handle on my basic appproach to using the Apex.

Good luck,

Barry H
 
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