Sharpening the tip

pvicenzi

pvicenzi

Basic Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
6,670
Am I the only one that sometimes has trouble sharpening the tip of a blade? No matter if I Free hand sharpen, use a sharpmaker, or use a guided system, the tip seems to almost always be a problem area. I can sharpen the straight part of a blade without looking, but I really have to concentrate on the last half inch, or so, at the tip. I suspect the tip is a problem area for others too as I have seen many factory edges that were good, except for the part at the tip. Also, anyone have any hints on maintaining the angle all the way to the tip? I have watched many videos and the experts make the tranistion at the tip seem easy.
 
pvicenzi said:
Am I the only one that sometimes has trouble sharpening the tip of a blade? No matter if I Free hand sharpen, use a sharpmaker, or use a guided system, the tip seems to almost always be a problem area. I can sharpen the straight part of a blade without looking, but I really have to concentrate on the last half inch, or so, at the tip. I suspect the tip is a problem area for others too as I have seen many factory edges that were good, except for the part at the tip. Also, anyone have any hints on maintaining the angle all the way to the tip? I have watched many videos and the experts make the tranistion at the tip seem easy.
Click to expand...

I just made my own Sharpener . there is no guessing if you are hold the knife right.
 

Attachments

  • Knife Sharpener.jpg
    Knife Sharpener.jpg
    14.6 KB · Views: 29
thats the problem with any guided system. i used to have an ez sharp and it took me a while to figure out how to do the tip but i still had problems. knives with a ffg were the worst since you had to clamp the blade so far back in order to clamp the blade without having the angles being off on one side or the other.

can you explain in more detail what the problem is with the tip? also, what kind of knife are you trying to sharpen that is giving you problems?

hand sharpening can be hard if you use the wrong method. if you want some help, i would be glad to give you a call if you send me your number. i have helped quite a few people improve how they sharpen by hand.
 
The only problem I have with tips is rounding them. But I've fixed that problem (me) and I've gotten a lot better. The tips seem to apex faster than the flats for me. I use a W.E pro pack 2 btw.
 
Done now, but I was working on a new Opinel #6 stainless. On the straight part of the blade, the factory edge had a burr. A few strops and that portion would shave arm hair. However, the tip portion had not even been apexed at the factory. I had to start from over on a coarse stone in order to get a nice edge
 
I place wax paper on a cutting board and pull every part of the tip through the paper and itll show your dull spots.

my tips must all be sharp for sushi prepping, dull tip means double work.
 
I've noticed with several of my knives that the factory angles near the tip are much steeper than the rest of the edge. I use a DMT guided sharpener and on these knives with varying angles I've had to do some serious reprofiling of the edge at the tip. I also put the clamp on the blade then look at how it relates to the tip and make sure to position the clip so that it maintains the proper angle at the tip. After reprofiling to the correct angles I think it will be easy to sharpen the tip next time.
 
These are some things that make sharpening tips easier for me:

  • Edge-trailing stroke (abrasive moving away from the edge, instead of into it).
  • Tip-trailing stroke (along the same lines as above, keeping the abrasive moving away from the tip, not into it). This is ideal for honing/grinding down the spine also, at the tip, when the tip has become excessively blunted or broken/chipped.
  • Use FLAT hones (not rods or edges of triangular hones), to keep the bevel as flush as possible. The wider & longer the hone, the better, to keep the motion steady and smooth.
  • Never drag the tip off the edge of the hone. Lay the tip gently on the surface, make the stroke and STOP. Then gently lift it away.
  • I always find it easier when the hone is oiled or otherwise lubricated; even with diamond hones or ceramics. Mineral oil or water + dish soap works well. Improves feedback/feel, which is critical to keep the tip & bevel flush to the hone.


David
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top