Sharpening the Tom Brown Tracker

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
I am thinking about getting a Tom Brown Tracker but I have been having a hard time finding info on sharpening the Tom Brown Tracker. Is there a specific way to sharpen it? Is there a specific angle for the different edges? I use the search on the forum and then google and I can't get any specifics or instructions or better ways to sharpen the knife.

I have a really hard time with stones because I can't do the same edge on both sides so I use a Smith Sharpening kit that seems to work really well on my Spydercos, Kabars, and other knives.

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks guys,
 
welcome to the forums. if you have trouble sharpening by hand, check out the paper wheels. i used to sharpen by hand until it bothered my hands. the wheels are easy to use and most guys can get good results their first time. check out my paper wheel thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787 you still have to hold the knife at the correct angle but its easier with the wheels than it is by hand.
i dont sell the wheels, i only tell people about them. you can get them at any woodcraft store or order them through grizzly imports.
 
If you are buying the knife new from a dealer, it should come with an instruction booklet. If not, I believe you can find it here.

There is not really a sharpening section, but I hope this helps.
 
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i have seen the manual and it doesn't give info on sharpening. I see posts on reprofiling the tracker and I was wondering what they use as an angle or how people sharpen it to make it a better cutter? Is 20 degrees good? Is sharpening the draw blade different than the convex edge? All my knives just have one type of edge on them, like my Spyderco Delica, Kershaw Leek, and Kabars.
 
I hope Pit sees this and shows off a picture of his Tom Brown Tracker which had a convex edge on the chopping portion and what appeared to be a deeper hollow grind on the draw knife portion. I will try to find some links to Trackers that have been reground or pimped.

link a - Pit's lovely Tracker

There is also a gent who had Tom Krein rework his Tracker to improve performance and asthetics. It can be found on Tom's subforum over at the USN.

Cheers.
 
richard j, I sent you an email.

I saw those pictures of pitdog's and others like his. I was wondering if you really have to reshape those edges or can you just sharpen the knife? I would really like to do it myself somehow without buying a wheel or giving it to a sharpener/maker. I believe that the different tools you use should be able to be taken care of by the user.

Thanks for your help and suggestions.
 
As previously mentioned mine is modified but it was the work of forum member Horndog, he was the one that sent it to me that way. I can't comment on the standard grind but Horndog hated it !

If I were to get one I'd probably only modify the blade section closest to the handle as you use it for notching and making fuzz sticks etc. The front section of blade is mainly for chopping so the standard TOPS thick edge should be fine for the heavy work.

p9280002g.jpg

By pitdog2010 at 2010-09-28
 
I'm not fond of cross forum linking but here is a temp link that will be removed after it is posted. The link goes to the pimp subforum on the USN.

---time's up for the link---

Cheers.
 
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Sweet I see it, I would totally be tempted to have the edges redone like that, but I would leave the shape and just have the edges reground. I have been chatting with richard j about sharpening and everything. I don't really know how to take care or sharpen a convex edge so I will have to get a day where I can chat on the phone with him.

I like the tom brown tracker and all but the black coating and to have his name on it and all kinda puts me off after seeing some of the other pictures of the redone/embellished knives.
 
the easiest way i found to sharpen my T2 was to take the hook off the blade with my belt sander...sooo much nicer now :D still splits like a beast...and i thinned out some of the "chunkier" areas of the blade so it's actually sharp.
 
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