Sharpening The Turkey Slicers

EDCeeker

EDCeeker

Joined
Apr 9, 2006
Messages
732
Now that I've got the Sharpmaker (plus diamond rods), I think this year I'll put an edge on the turkey slicers. Not being a cook, myself, I asked my wife "Which of these knives do we use for cuttin' up the turkey?" She put out a 7-1/2" (blade) Sabatier and a 10" (blade) that simply says "440C GOLD 3 STAINLESS JAPAN." (Wifey says they're both carving knives.)

The question is: What is the best sharpening angle, 15 or 20 degrees (30 and 40 degrees on the Sharpmaker, respectively), for these?

Also, how do I know if I should start with the diamond stone? (A question that would apply to sharpening any knife.)
 
I find the best blade is an 8" slicer or carver. A diamond stone should not be needed unless the blade is in very bad shape .Typical sharpening needs only a butchers steel or fine ceramic or fine diamond rod.The finer angle is better.
 
I find the best blade is an 8" slicer or carver. A diamond stone should not be needed unless the blade is in very bad shape .Typical sharpening needs only a butchers steel or fine ceramic or fine diamond rod.The finer angle is better.
 
I personally would go with the 30 degree setting, that is plenty thick for a kitchen knife. If the blade is more obtuse than 30 degrees included and you are pressed for time I would use the 40 degree setting. I would use the diamond rods if either the edge was in bad shape (I.E. chipped or extremely blunt) or if you had to reprofile the knife.
 
EDCeeker said:
Also, how do I know if I should start with the diamond stone?
Click to expand...

You need use use the diamond stone if you have to remove a lot of metal. Look at the knife under bight light directly into the edge and if you can see liht reflecting from it then you likely need the diamond rods. You will also need the diamond rods if you are going to change the angle, but in that case a benchstone would be a more efficient option still. I would recomment sharpening such knives with a 10 degree bevel and then applying a small secondary bevel at 15 degrees.


-Cliff
 
Well, that wasn't too successful :(. One of the two knives, I thought I could see the edge, so I started on the diamond stones with that one. Gave each knife plenty of time on the coarse stones, I thought. It just didn't seem to be happening. They could each fairly easily slice-cut newsprint when I was done, but they couldn't even wet-shave the hair on the back of my hand, whereas my two-week old Camillus CUDA EDC in 154CM could do it easily dry.

I tried the magic marker trick. The stock was definitely coming off the edge, but the area being sharpened was real narrow--leading me to believe that the angle on them was (well?) less than the Sharpmaker's 15 degrees. I couldn't tell real well with the one magnifying glass I have. I'll have to see if I can dig up that Radio Shack illuminated "microscope" thing I was given for Christmas years and years ago. Perhaps that'll let me see just what's going on.

Oh, and they didn't carve real well, either. Wife: "I think they may even be duller." Wunnerful. Grrrrr.

Ah well, it took me a while to get good at sharpening my wood-working tools, too.
 
The marker trick helps to make sure you are working the bevil all the way to the edge (as you already know). Here are two other ways i've learned from this forum that may work for you:

Method 1- Using the coarse stones (or diamond ones) just sharpen on one side repeatedly (don't alternate), and do so until you can feel a bur form. This is proof positive that you've actually ground to the edge. Then do the same on the other side.

Method 2- Deliberately dull the knife by lightly cutting the edge directly into the stone. Now the old edge is gone and you can recreate a new edge by sharpening with the Sharpmaker in the normal way. When the knife begins to feel sharp (thumbnail test) you know it's your newly created edge and not the old one.
 
EDCeeker said:
Gave each knife plenty of time on the coarse stones, I thought. It just didn't seem to be happening. They could each fairly easily slice-cut newsprint when I was done, but they couldn't even wet-shave the hair on the back of my hand, whereas my two-week old Camillus CUDA EDC in 154CM could do it easily dry.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a burr removal issue which is common on softer stainless, especially well used blades. Is the knife more aggressive on the arm on one side more than the other?

Oh, and they didn't carve real well, either.
Click to expand...

If you are used to a high polish with carving knives and tend to do more push cutting then a coarse edge will indeed be duller.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
This sounds like a burr removal issue which is common on softer stainless, especially well used blades.
Click to expand...
That had occurred to me, which was why I was trying to look at the edge with a magnifying glass. It looked like there might have been a burr there, but it was hard to tell.

Cliff Stamp said:
Is the knife more aggressive on the arm on one side more than the other?
Click to expand...
I hadn't thought to try that.

Cliff Stamp said:
If you are used to a high polish with carving knives and tend to do more push cutting then a coarse edge will indeed be duller.
Click to expand...
We were more slicing than push cutting.

Thanks for the help, Cliff :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top