Sharpening the Vallotton Sub-Hilt

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cutter17

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May 16, 2006
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I picked today as rotation day, and switched out my ZT0200 for my Vallotton Sub-Hilt.
I absolutely love this knife! The slender, but thick, heavy duty build is right down my alley! The only problem I have is getting this knife as sharp as my other two Spyderco's; Perrin PPT, and Titanium Military.

I realize that the PPT and Military are both flatground blades, while the Valotton is a hollow ground blade, with the convex grind for the last 1/2" of blade out to the tip. It's not that the blade isn't sharp, because it is, and will slice newsprint with ease. But when trying to shave hair it will not do so evenly, or across the whole length of the blade, with the tip being the "dullest portion".

I use what I've used for the past 25 years, and that is a Sharpmaker sharpener. With new knives that have a good edge, like the Spyderco's, I only use the white stones to touch them up with as that is all they really need.

Guess I'm asking, is there a better way to sharpen this particular blade? Should I use the gray and/or diamond stones, or just continue to sharpen with the white stones until it gets to the point that I want it to be?
 
The Valloton seems to have a thicker edge. I think I saw somebody also post about the thickness of the factory edge. A rebevel will make that high hollow grind slice like a demon.
 
Same 'problem' here. It looks like I'll have to reprofile it, because it's not as easy to touch up as the rest of my Spyderco's. It's not dull by any stretch but not as sharp as it simply HAS to be. :D
 
At least I'm glad to know it isn't just me.:D

I just continued using my white stones, after I cleaned them first, and gave the edge another 200 strokes. It still doesn't have that PPT/Military edge, but it got much closer to it. It is as sharp as I need it to be for my purpose's, and probably as close to the max that it can be sharpened without doing the rebevel. I will leave it as is because I do not have the proper sharpener to do a rebevel. Once I get an Edge Pro and learn the proper way to use it, then I may attempt it.

Thanks guy's!:thumbup::)
 
You can't use the sharpmaker on a convex tip. You have to use a flexible surface, such as sandpaper on top of leather. If you sharpen a convex edge on a sharpmaker, using the angle guides, you will ruin the convex nature of the edge. Spyderco should have included instructions on how to sharpen the blade.

Also, a convex tip will not "hair-pop" at the same angle as a the rest of the hollow grind blade, so the tip may be sharp enough, but will cut better at a slightly different angle.
 
Thanks for that info brownshoe! If I've read it correctly, I need to use sandpaper with something like a mousepad underneath the sandpaper to sharpen the convex edge, correct? I have some wet/dry 1000 grit automotive paper, would that be a good starting point? About what angle should I be using, or would the sharpie method be a good method to use?

Thanks for any info you can share!
 
I have one knife with a convex edge. It's a warcliffe trapper with the convex grind for utility purposes. I match the convex profile as I strop the knife backwards, starting with a low angle and moving up as you go to the edge. Just don't go up too much, or it will dull the edge. I use 400 and 600 grit paper, since I want a rougher edge for the convex grind.

I was not aware the Vallotton was not a "true" convex edge, I have not seen the blade, just the description on the spyderco website. Is that a convex grind with a saber edge :)
 
Few pics:
IMG_9370.JPG


IMG_9552.JPG


IMG_9553.JPG
 
EXCELLENT pics Philwar! I've simply continued to sharpen using the white stones and now the edge is sharp from tip to choil.

Thanks for all the responses guy's!
 
As long as you are hitting the very edge with the Sharpmaker it will get sharp no matter what grind it has. Yes it will start getting a microbevel and lose the perfect convex shape, assuming it has one, but it will get sharp. Use the Sharpie trick to see where you are hitting along the edge.
 
Thanks for the advice FlaMtnBkr, and in fact I had already done this and found that I was hitting the edge where I needed to, and that it is now hair poppin' sharp!

The more I handle, open/close, and just plain fondle this knife, the more I like it. There is something about the narrow blade/handle, but thick/heavy duty build, that I absolutely find appealing to me. This is exactly why I love my Kershaw Speedform!
 
Don't you have a Kershaw Volt? It seems like I remember you getting one. Your description also reminds me of the Volt. Fairly narrow and slim blade but with a nice thick blade stock. And with the ti handles a little heft and with the flipper and heavy blade it opens pretty quick.

I know this is the wrong forum for Kershaw talk but that's one of the few knives they make that I like and I thought I remember you having one. The only problem with it is the pocket clip which is actually a pretty big deal because I don't really trust it staying in my pocket.
 
Yes on the Volt, and would love to find another one to store as a safe queen. Not that the one I have is scratched up or dinged any, just been carried a little. You're correct about the Volt fitting that same profile now that I think about it.

Would love to see the Vallotton in some M390 blade steel!
 
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