Sharpening tips...

Masteroffajitas

Masteroffajitas

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I want to keep my blades sharp, hair shaving sharp, but I can't sharpen. I use crock sticks, but they don't sharpen that well, or it me? If you guys no a sharpening system, or website that could help me. Most of my knives are 1095.
 
The basic idea to getting the sharpest possible edge is to keep using less and less pressure until you're barely making contact with the abrasive.
 
I agree that reading in this forum will help a lot. There's many different sharpening systems out there -- most of them work very well if you practice and learn the basics properly. A $5 2-sided carborundum stone used by someone who has practiced and learned is much better than a $200 Edge Pro system used by someone who doesn't bother to practice and learn.

I recommend that you practice on cheap old kitchen knives before you move on to your best knives.

Whatever sharpening system you use, get a good magnifier and a Sharpie marking pen. Apply the Sharpie on both sides along the edge. As you sharpen, use the magnifier to determine whether you're actually sharpening the edge or just the "shoulder" where the edge meets the primary bevel. If the very edge is still covered with black Sharpie ink, you're not reaching it with your stone.

You don't need to spend a lot if you don't want to. A cheap carborundum stone or $10 worth of sandpaper and a mousepad can get the job done.
 
KeithAM said:
I agree that reading in this forum will help a lot. There's many different sharpening systems out there -- most of them work very well if you practice and learn the basics properly. A $5 2-sided carborundum stone used by someone who has practiced and learned is much better than a $200 Edge Pro system used by someone who doesn't bother to practice and learn.

I recommend that you practice on cheap old kitchen knives before you move on to your best knives.

Whatever sharpening system you use, get a good magnifier and a Sharpie marking pen. Apply the Sharpie on both sides along the edge. As you sharpen, use the magnifier to determine whether you're actually sharpening the edge or just the "shoulder" where the edge meets the primary bevel. If the very edge is still covered with black Sharpie ink, you're not reaching it with your stone.

You don't need to spend a lot if you don't want to. A cheap carborundum stone or $10 worth of sandpaper and a mousepad can get the job done.
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Any brick/mortar stores that carry cheap carborundum stones?
 
If you want to keep your knives sharp, your only options are to get someone else to do it for you, or learn how to sharpen. I personally prefer freehand sharpening to any guided systems or crock sticks. The reason being, if you can sharpen freehand, you can sharpen any where, all you need is a small portable stone or better yet a diamond coated credit card sized sharpener like the ones DMT makes. I also don't like the idea of being limited to using a system to sharpen. There's nothing wrong with using guided systems, it's just not my thing. Trust me, you'll be much better off learning how to freehand sharpen, you can get your knives just as sharp or sharper. I like to mention the fact that neither my Dad or my Grandpa even knew of any way to sharpen a knife other than on a whetstone. I'd be glad to help you out any way I can, just ask. In the past, I'v made up some wooden wedges to use as angle guides. They lay flat on your stone, it's best to tape it down with electrical tape so it doesn't move around. Then you just rest the blade on the wedge at the start of the stroke to maintain the correct angle. Hope this helps, I'm a little long winded today so I better leave it at that. If you have any questions, just post them, or I can give you my cell #, just leave an E-mail address.....Smitty.
 
KeithAM said:
Hardware stores generally carry them. Our local Sears and Ace hardware stores have them.
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Hey thanks. Check this

aluminum-oxide
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910089000P

silicon-oxide
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910078000P

Craftsman Combination Bench Stone???
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964404000P

Is the craftsman one silicon-carbide?
Which one is harder (silicon-oxide/aluminum-oxide/silicon-carbide)?
Hmm, mystery grit size ...
 
This thread (and others like it) have really been helpful. I think I want to go the stone-route for re-profiling (maybe a coarse DMT) and then moving to sandpaper on a mousepad and a loaded leather strop to finish.

...have I been doing my research correctly? Does this sound like something that'll work? I want to sharpen a Busse Battle Mistress, so it's quite a lot of knife to be moving around. I'll be starting-out with cheaper knives and cutlery first, but I'd like to eventually become competent with a stone and some of the more basic, non-mechanical techniques (read: probably won't be looking at belt sanders, etc.) so I can sharpen my own higher-end knives.

So! Any experienced sharpeners in here want to lend any comments, suggestions, or revisions to my plan? Thanks!

-Robb
 
It's definately a good idea to start with cheaper knives. Be patient. It can take quite awhile to learn, but don't give up, the reward is well worth the effort. The angle you sharpen at isn't nearly important as maintaing the angle, for this, the "sharpie" trick works well. Sharpen one side of the blade till you have raised a burr on the entire length of the blade, then turn the blade over and repeat. It is very important to make sure the burr runs the entire length of the blade. After you have raised a burr on the second side, it's time to remove it. To do this, increase your sharpening angle slightly, switch to a finer grit stone, and make long, slow alternate strokes that go from hilt to tip. Do one side, then the other and check frequently for the burr. Once it's gone, your done. Just remember, there are no shortcuts, you cannot proceed untill you have raised a burr on the entire length of each side. I hope this helps......Smitty
 
koli615 said:
This thread (and others like it) have really been helpful. I think I want to go the stone-route for re-profiling (maybe a coarse DMT) and then moving to sandpaper on a mousepad and a loaded leather strop to finish.

...have I been doing my research correctly? Does this sound like something that'll work? I want to sharpen a Busse Battle Mistress, so it's quite a lot of knife to be moving around. I'll be starting-out with cheaper knives and cutlery first, but I'd like to eventually become competent with a stone and some of the more basic, non-mechanical techniques (read: probably won't be looking at belt sanders, etc.) so I can sharpen my own higher-end knives.

So! Any experienced sharpeners in here want to lend any comments, suggestions, or revisions to my plan? Thanks!

-Robb
Click to expand...

DMT stones are a good way to go but the sandpaper and mouse pad is for convexing.
 
Technique and equipment vary, but my best luck has come by using a coarse DMT Dia-sharp 6" (if required), followed by a fine Dia-sharp, then strop.

I'm the only person here who can't get a knife sharp on a Sharpmaker. :thumbup:
 
powernoodle said:

I'm the only person here who can't get a knife sharp on a Sharpmaker. :thumbup:
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I've heard others say this and I've often wondered why. I use one to sharpen my Sebenza and it would have to be the sharpest knife I've ever owned. After giving it a little thought I suspect that one of the possibilities is that people are trying too hard. Yeah, sounds a little silly maybe but, for touching up a knife, 'gently does it' seems to be the way to go. I would describe it as more like using a leather strop than grinding on a stone. Less is more, if you like.

Anyway, horses for courses. The best sharpening system is the one that does the best job for you. Guided systems, freehand stones, sandpaper, wheels, whatever, as long as your knives are sharp.
 
I have found that preasure dosen't really matter with a spyderco ceramic. I have always used heavy preasure with the best rusults.
 
I have a little experience gained from reading this forum and using the SharpMaker and other methods. Still, I can sharpen one knife on a SharpMaker and split hairs then sharpen another knife the same exact way and it won't even shave. I can usually get it there, but each knife behaves differently and some are much more stubborn. When a knife bullies my SharpMaker I like to pull out the extra-coarse DMT to teach it some manners.
 
Anyone know the difference (besides price) between continuous sharpening surfaces and dimpled ones for the DMT stones? Any opinions?
 
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