Sharpening Tools for Axe

R

revolution13

Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
64
I'm in the process of getting a gransfors bruks small forest axe. I am aware that i'll for sure need the sharpening stone for minor touch-ups....but i wanted a file for taking a bit more metal off. Gransfors has two options here: a normal file...and a diamond file. Does anyone know which one I should get? Keep in mind, i only want to carry a few sharpening tools for the axe (not an arsenal).
 
I finally made a miniature convex kit 2 months ago and it seems to work great... strop normally and 180 - 800 (down to 120 actually) grit sandpaper depending what is needed. Been workin with it on some axes and hawks for two weeks and lovin it :thumbup:
 
when touching up or takeing a chip out of my sfa i useually use a convex edge sharpening kit if it is realy dull or has a chip i use 220 grit and mone up from there to 320 ,400,600,1000,1500,2000 then a short strop on brkt black compound here is a pic of the kit i made and use

khuk007-1.jpg


how the sandpaper looks while on the mouse pad which is glued to the top of the tin
khuk008.jpg
 
man i like your set up. excellent way to carry the sharpening possibles.
a little piece of foam works for the mouse pad. perfect
all good
thanks for posting
buzz
 
I've used Gransfors axes a lot and never damaged one enough to need a file. I use them a lot but I'm pretty careful with them and I don't lend them to anyone. A strop or stropping kit would probably handle the vast majority of your sharpening needs.

The Gransfors rep told me their axes are hardened to around Rockwell 57 so a regular file ought to be hard enough, if you someday need to file it. I'd buy the diamond file only if the price difference was small.

Where a file has come in handy for me is with beater and loaner axes. When someone dings up my 1970s era Sears beater/loaner axe, out comes the file. An axe file is also useful if you get something like a CS Vietnam Hawk and want to reprofile the edge (or add leading and trailing edges).

DancesWithKnives
 
I use a strop and anywhere from 200 to 1500 grit strips of wet dry sandpaper on it to sharpen my GB's. Never had to use a file even when I chipped one.:thumbup:
 
If you are going to get a file, you dont need to spend the money on the GB brand file, you would be fine with a single cut file from the harware store, it would be alot cheaper. I dont typically use a file on them though, unless it is really bad. I dont like the mousepad set-up for sharpening either. With one of those I obtused my GB's edge accidentally, and had to send it to siguy to get it back to normal. I use an axe stone and a leather strop and that works well for me.
 
I use the DC-4 shaperning stone from Fallkniven.Ray Mears has a video on sharpenng an axe with a DC-4.It works awsome on my Wetterlings :cool:
 
I use a basic mill bastard file, I like it because it is longer, making for a longer stroke. But, if you were carry it in the woods, maybe a bit overkill.

If you buy a normal file, buy a good one, I suggest a Nicholson or a Simonds.

The diamond file is not going to remove much metal, it is called a file, because it is shaped like one, not because it removes metal like one. Also, remember with diamonds to lubricate with water, and to keep your pressure low, or you can uproot the diamonds.

Marion
 
I've just used my Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker on my GB SFA. Works great. I only need the gray stones. I don't chop dirt, nails or hard what-nots, and so seldom need the service of a hard carborundum stone.

My axe has done a ton of chopping, and never seen a file.

CHEERS
 
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