Sharpening uneven bevels question

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wvdavidr

Joined
Mar 21, 2007
Messages
370
Hello all,
I ran into another uneven beveled knife today- a fairly cheap Santuko that was off by 2.5-3 degrees. I was using The Bladesharper by EZESharp (but have the same challenges with the Edge Pro Apex)- do you try to straighten the bevel or just duplicate the edge. Duplicating involves the Angle Cube and a lot of time and patience, raising and lowering the arm :( . Ignoring the difference and trying to straighten involves reprofiling :barf: . I could use a belt sander (which I have) but was trying to avoid another step. What do you fellow sharpeners recommend? NOTE: It was a free sharpening, so there's no money involved and I might not ever see the knife again.

Thanks for your help,
Dave
 
If it's a cheapo, just match the edge angles and call it asymmetrical grind if apex is off-center :p. On second thought, oh heck belt-sand it back to 50/50 and put a nice even bevel, since thing does comes around someday...
 
wvdavidr said:
Hello all,
I ran into another uneven beveled knife today- a fairly cheap Santuko that was off by 2.5-3 degrees. I was using The Bladesharper by EZESharp (but have the same challenges with the Edge Pro Apex)- do you try to straighten the bevel or just duplicate the edge. Duplicating involves the Angle Cube and a lot of time and patience, raising and lowering the arm :( . Ignoring the difference and trying to straighten involves reprofiling :barf: . I could use a belt sander (which I have) but was trying to avoid another step. What do you fellow sharpeners recommend? NOTE: It was a free sharpening, so there's no money involved and I might not ever see the knife again.

Thanks for your help,
Dave
Click to expand...

You may never get a good referral from this "free" customer either.......

Omar
:rolleyes:
 
Honestly, speaking as a guy who does a very limited little bit of sharpening-for-cash, I can tell you that 99% of people won't even notice. All they want it to be able to do is cut decently. If you can get it sharp (using the definition that it does whatever task they wish it to with a minimum of effort) then they will be happy with it.
 
Most factory knives are sharpened on belt grinders by hand, so the edges will always have a little "human error".

I always try to keep the bevels equal. There isn't any point in matching the factory bevels. You will do better tailoring your bevels to the knife, and how you want the blade to perform. Especially with the EP, you can do better than the factory.
 
I matched the existing, uneven bevel is because it looks much better. I was afraid it would look bad if it was double-beveled on one side, even if it was better. I was unwilling to completely reprofile (the owner wouldn't want me to put that much time into it).
 
Especially Japanese double bevelled - Western - kitchen knives are asymmetric, have an off-centered edge, with at the right side a large convex bevel, and a very small more obtuse one at the other side. Don't try to establish a symmetric edge on those. The effect won't be obvious immediatly, but after a few sharpenings strong wedging or steering is to be expected, as the edge does not match the knife's geometry.
 
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